Adding dishwasher to double sink with high drain outlet

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Louis

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I just bought this slight mess as p-traps are too low causing most of this assembly to be always filled with water and gunk. I'm needing to add a dishwasher drain as well. Strong preference not to move the he drain outlet and cleanout location because that would involve the HOA and the drain stack is cast iron (1929 building).
I've seen some shallow drain baskets that would give me another inch or two. Any suggestions or advice?
PXL_20220114_083457185.jpg
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Shallow basket strainers with direct connect tubular drain fittings that have the dishwasher wye built in...

LINK

Or installing the DW wye branch on the horizontal portion between the sink bays. less desirable.
 

breplum

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Only right way to do it is open wall and lower the drain. Or, get much more shallow sink.
The P-trap is already on backward.
Note: that mini water heater temp/pressure relief line must run to outdoor location.
 

John Gayewski

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Agree you need to get into that wall to make it worth doing.

The relief valve can be piped into a safe area doesn't need to be outdoors.
 

wwhitney

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The relief valve can be piped into a safe area doesn't need to be outdoors.
The UPC and IPC have different requirements in that regard. The UPC requires it to discharge to a drain or outside.


Cheers, Wayne
 

John Gayewski

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The UPC and IPC have different requirements in that regard. The UPC requires it to discharge to a drain or outside.


Cheers, Wayne
Yeah that's why I said it doesn't have to go outside. I don't think it has to go outside in any code. If that was in IPC I would be shocked.

That one could go through the floor and discharge onto the basement floor. Into a sump pit or into any other place imaginable. They only have to have an air gap and then can go about anywhere as long as it's not discharging onto a sub floor or ceiling, or trapped.

They all dump straight onto the basement floors around here. Or a sump pit.
 
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Jeff H Young

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Yeah that's why I said it doesn't have to go outside. I don't think it has to go outside in any code. If that was in IPC I would be shocked.

That one could go through the floor and discharge onto the basement floor. Into a sump pit or into any other place imaginable. They only have to have an air gap and then can go about anywhere as long as it's not discharging onto a sub floor or ceiling, or trapped.

They all dump straight onto the basement floors around here. Or a sump pit.

Hi John, in reference to your statement on t and p not requiring to be outside the building I believe this has come up before. And scratching my head I seem to remember it being a requirement in UPC for t and p to drain to outside the building. Over the years there have been subtle modification to this area of UPC code and my 2000 code book states relief valve tubing "shall extend from the valve to the outside of building not more than 2 foot nor less than 6 inches above ground or flood level of surrounding area" the code goes on to say the line can terminate in other "approved locations" but those locations aren't mentioned. those of us that were forced to live by this code generally took it for granted that you either run your t&p outside or better have inspectors blessing it wasn't merrily a choice of running it whichever way you chose.
But that wording has changed and generally floor sinks and drains can be used without specific permission to approve the location.
I think a lot of us in UPC are a little in the dark on this Its been bugging me had to look it up.
Modern code I too know of none that requires t and p to go outside of building though that's generally where they go on homes in Ca.

To the OP I see major issue at kitchen sink . as an owner of a 100 year old condo you might want to study up on who is responsible for the various parts of the building and make sure HOA covers their share of expense . its your choice fix it or don't
 
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