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I would definitely use National Testing Lab for a proper panel to determine the best approach, 119gpg vs 145gpg is a big discrepancy. Be prepared for a dual tank softener, whether a Fleck or Clack valve, and even then, you might not get softened water, just a reduction in hardness. A...

What kind of flow is your well pump capable of, and what would the flow requirements be in the house(any high flow fixtures). Typically, I like the idea of a chlorination system followed by a backwashing Greensand Plus filter, a softener, followed by a UV filter. Sizing really depends on your...

I would consider using fine mesh resin in the softener, it can help with the iron issue a bit better than standard mesh. Lots of differing opinions on that, but it does work in the applications I've used.

Seems like a lot of bells and whistles, overkill in my opinion. It's better to address known/present contaminants than throw the kitchen sink at it. Just my opinion though, there are many others on here who are more learned than I. Still stumped on the 16%CL :)

I mean, 16% resin is usually an industrial grade, not necessary for residential.

What's the link for the system, I'm curious as to what the claims are on the unit.

The pH climb from Katalox Lite can possibly be subdued by a full on soaking overnight, then a long backwash the following day, 40-50 minutes, before being put into standard use. It should stabilize after that. Another option is Filter Ox from Clack Corporation, which has no pH adjustment...

The AIO often needs additional freeboard for an air head, that's probably why on 1 cu ft. An old style Birm filter in a 10x54 tank used a micronizer which added the air to the water line instead of the tank, probably was a full 1.5 cu ft of Birm. As a side thought, I would use @ 1/4 bag of...

Cost, reliability, and ease of maintenance are strong factors in relation to the Clack control valve. Make sure the neutralizer has an access port to replenish the media periodically, without it, the job becomes more challenging. Without knowing any of your other conditions, I can't really say...

I would hesitate to use carbon, unless there is a an H2S presence. Carbon can possibly become a hotbed for organisms or bacteria if there is a slight presence. Your iron test is key to acquiring the right equipment.

Gravel underbedding helps with dispersion, and helps reduce channeling in the resin. Prevents "clumps" in the bed.

If you use 8% c/l resin, I would recommend a pre carbon filter. Catalytic carbon will remove chloramines from municipal water, which is even more destructive to resin than chlorine. Plus, you have the added benefit of the chlorine/chloramines being removed from the water you use daily.