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This was immensely helpful, thanks. Turns out a few of the settings were off. It was set for finned tubed baseboard instead of radiators and the outdoor reset was at 14ºF (factory default). I set the outdoor reset for 11ºF and changed it to radiators. Will see what that does, thanks again.

Interesting, I'll definitely try changing the outdoor reset, it's ranging from about 145º-155º right now. As for the condensate, trust me, getting plenty. burning through a 2lb. bag of neutralizer every month. Condensate pump cycles at least three times a day.

Thanks Dana, really appreciate it. I'll give all that a go soon. One thing is that the return water is usually just under 130º. I was thinking of dialing down the radiator flow to see if that would help? Also, ended up with stainless steel radiators from a company called castrads. New cast...

It's a victorian house and the boiler condensate goes from the neutralizer straight in the sewer line which unfortunately is cast iron so have to either keep changing it every month or come up with a bigger neutralizer kit.

Great idea thanks. I've been using just one Rinnai neutralizer kit and it's just not enough. I'll look into it. thanks

I can get it to 8 with new media, just that it only lasts about a month. Never had this problem before. Last boiler I had was a lochinvar and it would last a whole season. Don't know if this is a thing with just Navien.

Well, finally got it in. Got the NHB-150. One slightly annoying aspect is you can't tell what turndown ratio it's firing at (as far as I can tell). No problem getting it up to any temp but haven't had anything here yet below 9º at night so we'll see. So far it seems to be using about 40% less...

I have a Navien NHB-150 boiler and have been going through neutralizer at a fairly fast clip. My plumber installed a Saniflo sanicondens and it used up the round granules in about two weeks. I switched the granules to the Rinnai rocks (about 2lbs) and that only lasted just over a month. The ph...

I have a Navien NHB-150 and have two Nests hooked up to it. I just have the red and white wires going into the nests and haven't had any issues, didn't need the C wire.

My plumber says no and I don't have a check valve on my water supply coming into the house (open system?) However, I do have a whole house filter and a DAB pressure booster in between the supply and water heater. Should I install a expansion tank just to be safe? Concerned about the back...

But why the holding tank and pump to isolate it from the muni water? How would it even get back into it?

Yeah, fair enough. Would love to avoid it though as it brings in variables as having to flush the system more often and the degradation of the heating efficiency.

Good point but I live in a city, so in that case it probably would look like world war z after a few days of no electricity and freezing pipes would be the last of my worries. I mean, it's conceivable that the power could go out on my block for a day or so but have never heard of it happening...

Okay, so got this from an installer who wrote a proposal and have no idea what he's talking about. The unconditioned space is a addition to the house with a 3' bare dirt crawl space underneath it. the pipes to it run through a 3' open hole leading to the basement. The previous pipes were cast...

Whew! NOW we're talking! Some of what you've said has sunk in so thanks for that, I was all set on a 160K and learned a lot here so thanks again!

oh, that hurt...

Um, as I said above, that's 300ccf per month.

It's not vented. There's old rock wool in the attic floor in some parts but mostly nothing

Interesting and agreed about the floors to the basement, I'll run the numbers again for the floors. I have to say though, I ran it giving it hardly any air infiltration and even you said yourself that it's 70º differential not 60º which gave it a lower number. I can keep on changing them so you...

That's just the 2nd floor