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On further thought, the fact that the water may be dirty and contaminated has me wondering if it might be wiser to get the water out right at the tank. There is not good way to get the water from that tank out without blowing it a long way and partially though the house. If I let all of the...

I must say, that is a very good idea and much less complicated than the approach I was thinking of. This system has two tanks next to one another. The bladder on the second tank is not broken. I have never thought about this but, with regard to the second tank, when the well is off, how...

I need to replace one of my well pressure tanks (has 2 32 gallon bladder tanks). The tanks are plumbed together before the pressure switch and there is a pressure relief valve but no drain valve. My plan is turn of the well breaker, run my irrigation to run the pressure out of the system and...

I appreciate what you are saying and I probably didn't do a great job explaining the difference in the sound with the door open. I still get the sound of burners lighting (that mildly deep sound like a Harley about 300 yards away giving a quick and slight twist of the throttle). What I don't...

I appreciate the reply. There is not a window in the boiler room but there is a dedicated air vent from the roof as well as a 3" gap along the bottom of the door and the flame seems to be a nice blue color and fully burning the fuel. What specifically about what I have described would...

If you can't read the numbers (I had to crop and resized due to file size) here is just the label.

Sorry for the slow reply, getting this picture was more difficult than I thought it would be. I think it has the numbers you want. As for my original question, I actually think the noise I hear is the door to the mechanical room gently being pushed against the jamb. While taking the pictures...

Here is the picture of the flames. Also, with the door to the mechanical room open (while taking the picture) the sound is much less noticeable. I think it may be air gently pushing the door into the jamb and I was thinking that light thud was the burners igniting. But, I wouldn't mind you...

Our home is about 4300 sf and we have radiant baseboard heating. About 2 years ago we replaced the boiler with a 166,000 btu Weil-McLain, Model # CGa-6PIDN, natural gas. Our prior boiler had a pilot light, this one has an ignitor. We are happy with the unit but one thing has bothered me since it...

Yes, I will have dampers built into the discharge elbows that go from the unit to the roof jack. That was another issue with the down discharge units I had, no dampers. Good question!

Thanks fitter. No, aesthetics isn't really a concern. The only real reasons for the down discharge I can see are aesthetics, footprint and a little additional cost which aren't a problem. The draw back to me is access for maintenance to the ducting interface (and even getting a good seal on...

Replacing 2 full house evaporative coolers that are down discharge. Had problems with them leaking air between the roof jack and AC interface and, due to access issues (because the interface is under the unit), it was difficult to address effectively. Am likely going to go with side discharges...

That would indeed be a very clean install. I have decided that I will go with a side discharge. WIth this design I assume I would want the damper at the discharge opening and the 90 duct elbow attached to it? The discharge opening is 19.75 x 19.75. Not being a HVAC guy, where might I get...

I currently have 2 large, fairly tired, Master Cool down draft evaporative coolers on our flat roof. We are getting a new roof (TPO) soon and I plan to replace the evaporative coolers as part of that process. Neither unit has a damper to to actuate or insert for winterization (instead, I...

Well I'll be. There I went again assuming (that they wouldn't accept 10 gauge wire) and I should have known where that might get me. Sorry for not looking harder before posting but I do very much appreciate the help (again)!

I am intending to run some circuits from a subpanel. For voltage drop purposes I will be using 10 gauge AWG. I was getting ready to pick up the GFIC receptacles and it struck me that they likely won't accept 10g AWG (or 10g won't fit correctly). How might I make that connection in a safe...

Thanks very much Wayne .... I think I now have a handle on it and will proceed accordingly!

Ah, that's very interesting and I appreciate the clarification. Is there a calculator out there one can use for such a purpose? Basically what I have is a sub-panel 100' from the main box fed by four 8 gauge AWG THHN (2 hot, 1 com, 1 ground). There is a gfi receptacle on the pole of...

Just so I am clear, what you are describing is actually connecting the wires together in the junction box and making them all the same circuit with the same breaker, correct? More what I was thinking was to just route the wires from the 3 conduits into a junction box (or something like a j-box)...

I have an outdoor sub-panel that I am going to add 3 circuits to for various outdoor plugs around our front yard. I have the conduit installed and ran to the panel but would prefer, from an aesthetics perspective, not having 4 different (these 3 plus one existing) runs of conduit running up...