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Yes. tub drain right above drywall, tee to toilet above it, stack exists through roof On the way to the main stack tub connects a sink drain, the sink drain has it's own venting to the main stack If i understood you correctly, either tee or wye would work. Correct? Keeping the wye since it...

I got experience out of it, appreciate all your input. There isn't enough access there, replacing is the way to go anyway. As pictured there is a wye for the tub/sink and a tee on top of it. According to this the wye is a a bad idea. replace the wye with a tee??

pre-tinned, mapp + good torch, 50/50 etc. went ok except i couldn't fill in the 2mm gap at the top portion, i guess it was too loose for a novice to solder. may not leak for all i know, put feels like a hack. plan b, going to cut out the copper tee and put in plastic with a couple of mission...

Space is as pictured, i'd say semi accessible. Ran into a plumber who did work for me one time, paid him whatever he asked then, a+ experience for both. This time told me to text him, still waiting for a reply, haha. May have to do this myself, oh boy. As per all your suggestions. Plan a...

yeah... the tee isn't aligned with the pipe, guessing that's why the joint failed, top and bottom look ok. i thought about that, is there a DWV rated one? urine eats through copper

Called a few plumbers, sent pictures, crickets, too hard i guess. Can a fernco renforced rubber coupling be attached to the tee?

So the toilet pipe fell off during a reno, wasn't soldered well at all to begin with, there is almost no coverage and half the pipe is pitted from the flux inside the joint. Realistic to solder this very loose fitting 3" pipe? Rubber coupling a reasonable way to fix this?

I have a tub and shower only, is it best to get a single function trim and use a spout with a diverter or get a dual function trim and diverterless spout? I'm used to the diverter on the spout with the likes of posi temp, i am missing out? item is question...

They torched through the steel beam to make an opening for the pipe, the part of the beam that's touching the pipe is sharp, will ptfe get ripped eventually? Screwdriver is the right idea just not 100% what to wedge in there

I loosened one nail and that seems to have done the trick. The pipe isn't parallel to the joist, i can easily use the Oatey bell, but it seems more of a decorative standoff mount than a noise muffler no? I'm thinking plastic is the way to go. I pulled more floor boards, there is a 2" heating...

This clamp makes noise when this hot pipe expands/contracts what's the proper way to fix it? I don't get it, there are two nails and and a clamp, this should be foolproof since it's inside a wall and yet it makes noise.

Thanks, I'll definitely use that fitting or solder the brass the copper. My question is, does water drain noticeable better, when the section from the strainer to the p-trap is taller like in most installations?

Am i going to have any problems with this setup? If so, is there any other way of doing this besides lowering the drain at the wall? The drain is sloped properly but it worries me that the vertical piece is so short. Don't mind the rubber piece, it will get soldered eventually.

So i have this 60 year old seal that has completely disintegrated. What's the right type of seal to put in there? This one has the perfect internal diameter but i'm concerned it might be too thick...

pulled out an old steel tub, it was sitting on two 10" pieces of 2x4, is that a good way to install the new one?

The cord is part of old electrical wiring. Terry, what would be your choice of flange ?

Hi guys, I am renovating the bathroom, contemplating whether it's worth it to replace the lead toilet drain or not, money is tight and I'm getting quotes of 600+. it has never given me any problems and other than peace of mind I don't see much reason to do it. the existing flange was of the...