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try running ur ac again pull the tstat from its base does it shut off the unit? if so good if not you got a bad issues.

DonL nail it just wanna add a restriction in the lines such as plug filter dryer, Txv, Orfice most likely low on ref if so then you have a leak or the unit was not properly charge.

u need to check where the drain is connected to might have a hair line crack or the seal is no good I would replace the whole drain where it connects from the unit hope it helps.

where about in NH are u from mike take some pics. here a back door to get u in http://www.taco-hvac.com/en/library.html#

check the wiring http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/IV311.pdf

What is the boiler pressure when it is running?

Sound like the pipe thread die was no good or they do not know how to thread pipe did they use pre-treaded pipe at all if so are they leaking too?

Before you go ahead and spend your hard earn cash my advice will be replace your boiler it's close to 20 yrs old i'll hate to see if you spend the $$$ then a years or 2 it dies I know how it feel's I live in MA.

You dont have to re-pipe go with Plumber #1 as for plumber #2 send him on his way.

We Use Blk Mal fittings & pipe, Oxygen in any hydronic heating system is a killer proper installation of the unit can avoid air issues, Copper has a higher heat Conductor rating over blk mal thus we use blk over copper, Headers should always be pipe in Blk limit the lost of BTU's.

Some have Pride in what they are doing some do not if your handyman has his oil license all good the issue with non-license oil teck's come's down to insurance this happen to a lady in the town I live in she had non-license guy install a heating unit could not pull permit with no license 3...

Agree's with pete, aquiety, T-stat,Limit Control, or your Primary Control specially if you have R8184G type control (grey box with a red button) Contacts get worn out make the control click on and off rapidly run the unit and give the control few love taps and see if get stuck or shut off and on.

350? for aqua-stat? I think you mis-read it the tech that came to your house charge you 350 for a cad cell? not for the aqua-stat click link http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=hydrolevel+cut+off&show=dd&sa=N&lnk=next&start=20 Hydrolevel Company 3150

Agree's with peter

I'm a Master Oil Tech I'm Reading whats going on just adding my 2 cents your aqua stat setting to high (This time got up to about 205 w/15 psi.) @ 30 psi and over your relief valve will let go 212 ur making steam if you have it @ 205 or 200 when your boiler hits that mark it will shut off...

it should be @ the chimney or @ boiler and not on the run so have a thimble in the chimney then ur reducer / increaser then ur flue pipe but each state town's has they own rules.

i would say get a portable water expansion tank install reason if T&P valve letting go after been replace only thing i can think of when your water heats up it builds up pressure to much of will let ur T&P to pop as for cost all depends you can buy it home-depot make sure you ask for a portable...

this will help alot if your oil is gel up alot during the cold i use it myself it works very well. http://www.fppf.com/homeheating.asp

What brand model is your boiler? Also send me what info you have.

Replace all 3 play it safe water feed relief valve and expansion tank and after that bleed the system out :)