Search results

Thanks, I was just reading about the duct board. That's one of the materials I am considering.

That's funny. :D Can't touch the wall behind the duct as it already houses a supply duct within it. I appreciate all the suggestions from everyone so far and I'm open to more ideas.

That's an interesting idea, but I'd rather not deal with sheet metal. What other material can I use? I am thinking of that foil lined insulation with an adhesive on one side. Would something like that be an acceptable alternative? What different types are there?

Yes, they should've done a better job installing that duct. Unfortunately, I have to deal with what it is. Part of the reason I was asking about the best paint/finish was the "air quality" consideration. As far as the size of the wall cavity, it actually will be bigger than the current...

I never thought of a fire code affecting this, since the stairs to the upstairs don't require a door. But instinctively was thinking of using the concrete sheet rock to line the inside and the finishing wall of the new return. I think that would address the speed of fire spreading problem...

I asked this elsewhere, no reply yet... What do you guys think? When our furnace was replaced, the installers put some new ducting in, including this 2nd floor air return duct. Each floor has separate ducting and it’s own furnace. Because this duct butts right against the door trim and...

+1 Have the kid's parents see it and have the kid HIMSELF clean the mess up.

THAT is correct! And that is exactly how the union is installed in the above picture, between the gas valve and the "T" on the vertical drop, you just can't see it. However, in your original reply you said it should've been between the "T" and the THERMOSTAT, which is not what you're saying...

Thanks for the screws suggestion. Once I complete the final adjustments on the vent piping and after the second water heater is installed, I will add more screws and also will use foil tape around the connections. The leaks from the joints are a concern (hence the overkill with both tape...

The union allows you an easy "starting point" for disassembling the gas connections. However, if you used the flex pipe for your connections, you won't need a union, since you can just unscrew the connecting nut.

Here, the PROS connect the gas line to a water heater control valve without a union between the tee and the thermostat. ( But in your case, why would you need a tee if you don't have traps?) The joint union is actually on the VERTICAL run of the black pipe, a foot or two above the "T". In...

You're very observant :) And you're right, I did use BOTH tape and pipe dope on all the connections I made. For gas connections I used the yellow gas tape. I have 2 compression fittings there. I was aware that pipe dope was not required for them. However, someone very knowledgeable (I...

Yes, that sounds good. Just double check all the connections for any leaks. ...BTW, I'm not Terry but that's ok :)

I've seen flex gas connectors looped so that the loop is below the connection to the heater and acts as a sort of sediment trap. However, I would keep the sediment trap, since it's as easy to get a shorter flex connector and loop it so that one side connects to the heater and the other to the...

I'm not a pro so take this with a large grain of salt. Here are some of the possibilities depending on type of water heater you have... Problem one: thermocouple. Problem two: air intake screen gets plugged with dust and not enough fresh air is supplied Problem three: if floor under...

No, that's actually a brand new shiny iron "T". :D But the old heater next to this new one, which was installed by a "pro" has a galvanized T, galvanized sediment trap, galvanized joint union and a galvanized elbow in the gas connections. (See the pic below) I don't know what the code here...

Yes, I still need to connect the TP discharge pipe as I mentioned in my OP. And I will wait couple of weeks before insulating the cold and hot pipes just in case there are any leaks. Thanks Gary. :) I was hoping to use fewer connections but that was hard to do without sweating the pipes...

Ok, I finally received one heater and installed it, still waiting for the second one. I tried the BrassCraft black braided flex connectors but found their threads very flimsy as they strip with minimal force. I ended up using corrugated copper connectors, a hex nipple, a threaded valve...

Funny, after I opened this thread, I actually thought of using Billy Mays's epoxy! :D Do they sell something similar in the stores? The good thing is that the upper section is actually "S" shaped and RESTS on that stone wall, so it will not need to be supported and cutting the "T" out will...

Anyone has any suggestions?