Search results

Toilet is installed.

When the toilet is cast at the factory they have to drain the slip and then put plugs in from where they drained it. It’s completely normal to have those.

If the coupling is leaking you could try replacing it with a no hub which may keep it from leaking. That’s usually the way we connect cast iron to any type of plastic pipe

try replacing the wax ring first. If that doesn’t work then it could be problem with the flange or there could be a pinhole in the pipe

Try putting painters tape around the area you are going to caulk. Also leave the back of the toilet uncaulked so if theres a leak you will see it.

Your welcome

The glenwall vormax will fit the carrier and would probably be the easiest option for a replacement. Otherwise you would have someone coming in with a jackhammer to replumb that.

It probably has something to do with the fill valve. Depending on the type of fill valve you have you could try taking it apart and replacing the seals but you may just want to buy a new fill valve

Tile is in. Toilet will be installed once the sink is installed

you probably got a 10 inch rough in toilet when you have a 14 inch rough in. The only way to fix this is to replace the toilet with a 14 inch rough in toilet. Otherwise you would be opening up your floors to move the toilet back

Rear Outlet floor mount toilets should be interchangeable. you should be fine.

yeah you do have a point. I was just saying you have to get the whole valve to get the part you need to do that

Personally I would just replace the whole valve because you have to buy the whole valve to get the part you need. But you can replace the washer in some circumstances

It’s probably fine just as long as the tank fills

But in your case I think removing the tank is a good idea due to the condition of the bolts. I would replace the bolts with new ones. A set of the proper screws or anchors would be needed to secure the tank depending on whether you have wood or drywall.

The tank actually may not even need to be removed but the flush pipe between the tank and bowl has to come off to remove the flush valve. the flush valve may be difficult to get off due to its age. I would only take the tank off the wall though if the bolts are severely rusted too the point...

Here is a link to a flapper that should work with the flush valve. This is the part you need https://www.ebay.com/itm/256302966855?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=n0FDHycMS_u&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wjBJH0P0Teu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here is a link to a replacement flush valve https://www.ebay.com/itm/152638125822?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g0E3pIbOQcu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wjBJH0P0Teu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

It appears there is a leak between the flush valve and the tank. The seal will have to be replaced. Those old 1920s toilets in my opinion are better than anything they make today. I would replace the flush valve and flush valve seal.

It will work. The wellworth tank will fit on the highline.