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Hey John! How are you? It has definitely been a long time. Don't do as much on DIY Internet sites as I used to. Great to hear from you!

I'm not a pro plumber, but I would plumb the supplies to the toilet and shower up between the 2X2" furring strips on the inner wall, and the vanity sink lines up through the floor. You will have to remove some brick for the shower valve. I live in NC and the only time that I've ever had a line...

Go to a pro plumbing supply house and look for shower faucets with extra large estucheon plates made for the purpose of going into the wall from the shower side to replace the faucet. The large estucheon plates will cover the larger hole necessary to remove the old and install the new faucet...

"Floating" debris moves with water movement back and forth within the pipes and open valves. Turning other faucets on can cause the water to move in the pipes, temporarily removing the clogging debris. You have to dismantle the clogged faucets, lay a towel over them, turn the water pressure...

That cracked pipe appears to be copper. If it is, you should be able to cut it with a tubing cutter if you have turning clearance (or a hacksaw) and connect it to the trap with either a Fernco (neoprene rubber) coupling or a no-hub coupling (with a ss sleeve), and PVC pipe connected to the...

Been on septic systems now for more than 32 years. NC State University has done many years of extensive studies of all types. In a nutshell, their findings: A. All of those chemical additives are a total waste of money. Normal usage provides all of the bacteria necessary. B. The only...

220/221, Everything that you've described is subject to freezing damage if it isn't properly drained and all traps anti-freezed with RV anti-freeze (including the built-in toilet traps). You'll just have to deal with this like everyone else...winterize it properly or repair it. Sorry. Good...

Oops! solvent and cleaner will dissolve most anything sticky, including chewing gun, adhesives, etc. Mike

The valves probably only need new washers and o-rings. You don't necessarily need to replace them. Good Luck! Mike

Can't you simply renegotiate with your builder, select the other faucets that you want, and have the builder (sub) install them to begin with? I can't imagine that being that big of a deal. Mike

Rotten egg odor in water (private well or public water source) is caused by sulphur or hydrogen sulfide in the water. There are various remedies for it. Just do a search for it on the Internet, and you will find everything from expensive treatment systems to "home remedy" booklets to solve the...

Hey John, Long time no speaky. How are you? Mike Swearingen (aka OldGuy, etc.) Formerly from Gladewater, TX, Now NC.

If you can't replace it all from below, you may be able to stuff a rag down the drain pipe to keep the peices from falling in, hacksaw blade the broken flange into quarters (don't cut into the drain pipe too), and chip it out with a hammer and chisel. Clean the pipe up with sandpaper and...

If the tank is overflowing, there somehow is a clog in the overflow tube or more likely the toilet bowl itself. If the bowl is overflowing, there is a clog in the drain pipe. Which is it?

All of this should have been disclosed to you prior to signing a lease. Demand that your landlord have this fixed properly by a licensed plumber before you get inadvertantly involved in any kind of legal situation regarding damages from your downstairs neighbor! Good Luck! Mike

Scott, You apparently have an old sectional drain line (most likely cast iron) which will continue to allow root intrusion between the sections until you replace it with something solid like white plastic PVC or black plastic ABS pipe (IF allowed locally) that won't allow root intrusion...

I assume that the sink drain stopper is fully open when the faucet rod is pushed down? If it is, you may just need to use a little enzyme-based drain cleaner, such as DrainCare to open up the drain line. Good Luck! Mike

Just replace the resin. Contact a local water softener company. They should be able to advise you. Easy. Good Luck! Mike

The top of the brass plug has a crosspiece in it that can be hooked from above. As Redwood said, you just need a stronger fishing wire to snag it out. Leave about a 1/4" width in the hook to fit down into the plug and catch a crosspiece. Once you catch the plug, pull the wire out with a pair...

I'm not a pro plumber, just a long-time DIYer. If hydraulic cement didn't work on this, you might try black plastic roofing cement. It comes in various size cans from quarts to 5-gallon buckets, is extremely sticky, and it can even be applied in the rain, and it SEALS. I've used it for years...