Search results

I've recently purchased a new old house (1924). In one upstairs bathroom, the toilet was perched upon some 3/4" thick wood shims. I figured I had better figure out why, so I pulled it and discovered a previous owner's repair job. He was a carpenter / woodworker, and apparently not a plumber...

The powder room is an old addition. The house is brick. I suppose it was not feasible to run the drain inside the brick wall. Also, due to the way the addition is supported, it doesn't appear it was feasible to take the short route to where the lav ultimately resides. That's all I meant by...

I am currently renovating a first floor powder room. The room was an addition built in the 50's onto my 1920's house. I plan on replacing the lead drains with pvc (highlighted in green below), and replacing the blue highlighted cast iron with pvc as well, as there is zero slope in that section...

The sink shouldn't need to be level front to back. You can probably install it flush to the wall, shim the base to support it properly, and then grout or caulk around the base to hide the gap and shims.

Actually, I'm in Jacksonville. I am hesitant to piss off the insurance company. My house has the original asbestos-cement roof, and out of about 40 insurance companies, mine was the only one that would cover it. I'm looking at roofing options now, but until then..... I see you're in...

I've noticed some recent settling on one side of my 1929 home. There are a couple of new cracks in the concrete block foundation, and some cracks in the brick mortar on both the front and back of the house. No recent changes have been made to the house, yard, etc. What is the best way to...

I'm replacing some galvanized pipes in my house. I'll have to verify, but I believe my meter size is 5/8. I have 3/4" PVC supply running the 30 or so feet from meter to house. Inside the house I have 3/4" gal which I'd like to replace. I have 2 1/2 baths, and about 32 fixture units. Is...

If I use a 3" 1/4 bend, I will have no height problems. I can use the correct length 3" pipe from the top of the 1/4 bend to the flange. I do have a problem if I use 4" the entire way, as the height of a 4" 1/4 is greater than the height of a 3" 1/4 bend. The upper hub of the 4" bend even...

Below is my revised plan. I will start at 3" at the flange, and then increase to 4" after the first 90* bend. I'm assuming it's fine to use 3" for a closet drain. Below is a drawing of my vent setup. (The lav and wc are the only fixtures on this stack). Again, if anyone sees...

What if instead of a 3" to 4" closet bend, I used a 3" 1/4 bend? Then I would have 3" pipe from the flange all the way to the flush fit bushing. The flush fit bushing does bother me a bit, the more I look at it. It seems things could get 'trapped' just past the bushing on the 4" side of the...

You will have to remove all of the lead from the brass ferrule. At it's thickest point, there was probably 1/2" of lead all around the ferrule. I melted off at least a couple pounds from my closet drain. I just used propane, which is all I have experience with. I had plenty of heat. MAPP...

Okay, this is what I'm going to do to make this work.. Someone jump in and steer me straight if there is a problem with this setup: What I don't like is that it goes from 4" down to 3" at the bushing, and then back to 4" for the remainder of the drain. I guess there's no problem with...

I'm repiping a lead drain with PVC. I have a 4" CI wye, with a brass ferrule extending from the hub. From there, I have a 4" mission coupling, a short piece of 4" PVC, a street 1/16 bend and a standard 1/16 bend, a 1/4 street bend, and then the flange. The flange fits inside a 1 3/4" tall...

Great! Thanks, Terry! -Zach

I am repiping the drain for my lav, back to the stack. The stack is CI, with a 2" san tee. From the bell of the san tee, is a brass ferrule (I melted the lead off of it.) I'll be using a no-hub reducing coupling to join the brass ferrule to the 1 1/2" PVC for the drain. My question is...

Next, I prepped the area. It was pretty close quarters, so I used a fireproof blanket to protect the wall behind the pipe. Next, I laid a couple of towels under the ferrule. I spritzed everything down with a spray bottle, just to keep any sparks from igniting anything. The rest is just...

I wanted to extend a thanks to everyone on the forum for providing me with some valuable advice. Last year, I purchased a 1928 house with all original plumbing. Without getting into too much boring detail, I decided to remove a couple of lead drains from a 2nd floor half bath. The lead was...

Actually, it's a 2nd floor half bath, but I have the floor completely opened up. I have access all the way back to just behind the hub on the cast iron wye. (but, I'm also going to be doing the exact same thing on my lav drain. It's also lead. But 2", I'm guessing) I've actually had...

If I attach to the brass ferrule, would I use a standard 3" Fernco coupling? (I'm just assuming it's a 3" ferrule... ?? )

I've been told by several people to get rid of the lead drains while I have access to them, and that they'll eventually crack and leak... so I would prefer to do that. I guess my question is, should I use a donut, fernco coupling, new CI, or something else?