Recent content by STyler

Nobody wants to even try to take a stab at any of the questions? Should I add prizes? :)

My goal is to be able to draw 7.5 gpm for 30 minutes or 5 gpm indefinitely - at a minimum. That's mixed gpm, not exclusively hot water. I'm figuring approx. 70% hot water vs 30% cold. But with the higher tank temp, I'm ball parking only about 75% of my hot water demand at the shower will be...

When I run the numbers, it seems that 3/4" PEX should be big enough - but if you're saying that in a real world application it likely isn't big enough, that's the kind of input I'm looking for. So you'd up-size to 1"? The WH claims 200 gallon 1st hour supply which is the only reason I opted for...

If I knew less about plumbing and had less experience roughing in plumbing, I might have tried to tackle it. But I know enough to know that there's not a chance I want to do this myself. But the engineer in me still wants to make sure I know exactly what should be done because there are a wide...

Maybe the thread title wasn't clear. Wanting to focus on the plumbing - or the general design & location of the plumbing fixtures. Appreciate the comment about considering the waterproofing first - just saying that it already was considered and is handled. Now I've moved on to the plumbing.

Yes, a wet room - no glass (with the exception of the door that will probably be added). There will be a curb at the entrance of the alcove. I only asked about the plumbing because that is my only concern. The grading and waterproofing are being done by my tile guy who I'm very familiar with...

I'm building a house for my daughter & son-in-law and a large walk-in shower with no door was the most important feature requested by my daughter. I'm not convinced that a door-less shower will stay warm, so I designed it so a door could be easily added if needed. Also trying to talk them out...

Sounds like he found one that rocks. I've been through dozens of low flow showerheads and have yet to find one rated for 2.5 gallons that provided an adequate shower for my tastes. A simple drilling is a heck of a lot more convenient than replacing the showerhead multiple times and returning...

Runs with bison mentioned that earlier so I'm scrapping the idea of a cutoff switch. I up-sized my service in order to handle the 3 - 40 amp breakers for a tankless unit, but after spending some time here, the reliability issue has backed me off of a tankless unit.

Same cost as the non-simultaneous.

Unfortunately, I only have room for 1 unit. Plus, I don't see how 2 - 40 gallon water heaters would yield more volume than an 80 gallon unit with simultaneous operation. Especially enough to justify the additional cost.

This is info I searched all over for when trying to decide if a tank heater was feasible (vs tankless). I'd spend $5 - $10 a month for hot water at the ready - but not $30-$40 a month. I couldn't find any info on estimated annual electricity usage with zero water demand. Any idea where I can...

These units are designed for simultaneous operation. The amp rating of the breaker won't put any demand on the thermostat. How do you think you can plug a night light into a 20 amp circuit in your house?

#6. Always the option to run 2 separate 30 amp circuits, but not sure of the point. ... and please stop thinking about my nuts. :eek:

I'm planning on trying a 50 gallon water heater wired for simultaneous operation in lieu of a tankless unit for my barn. This will have a separate cutoff switch so it can stay off until needed, but I need to reduce the heatup time - and the recovery time during use if it will work in this...