Recent content by Radio Flyer

I’m installing a Saniflo upflush toilet with shower and vanity connected. The shower trap arm will be shorter than 5 ft., and the pump unit will be vented as required. The folks at Saniflo told me that with trap arms that short, I don't have to individually vent the shower and vanity drain...

I think I can manage that! Thank you. Wayne's idea is also helpful, though since I'm up against a rim joist in the corner of the house, it would be difficult. Again, thank you for the help!

Filed under "stuff in my house then doesn't seem right" is this toilet DWV setup. The toilet flange connects to the wye you see, and the line is vented just upstream. Again, the only venting on this line is upstream from all fixtures, including the toilet. You can just barely see the vent...

So far, so good. Thanks again for all the help on this!

Hey, that looks perfect! Thanks! For the horizontal line along the concrete wall, I hope to have the line touching the concrete so I can then fur out the wall just beyond the depth of the PVC fittings and install drywall. (Keeping the wall thin so it won't project beyond the side of the picture...

I'm thinking I'll go with the 4x4x3 Santee you suggested as the simplest option. I found a 4-in flush cleanout adapter that will accept a 3-in flush cleanout plug, so the height will be only about an inch more than the closet bend. I feel the closet bend COULD work, but the cleanout would be...

Thanks, everyone! I think the squeaks when the heat is off are coming from very minor flexing in the floor joists. It's tiny, but enough to create a squeak between the PEX and wood. I like dustbunny's idea of using wire loom rather than foam pipe insulation. That might be cheaper and easier to...

Wow, that was some quick calculating! Thanks! I'll take a look at the Charlotte catalog.

Thank you both. For a medium 90, that would require a 4 in. 90 elbow and then a reducer for the 3-in line coming in., I guess. I hoped maybe the closet bend would keep things even lower to the ground, but maybe Reach4's idea of a sanitary tee is just as low and would provide the cleanout all...

Thanks. Do I need to insulate the PEX between the first and second floors? I kind of assumed that having the hot PEX between floors was sort of like a heated floor element and that the heat would just make its way into the level above. Does that sound right? Insulating all of it would be a much...

Yeah, it seemed strange to me, too. I have cut some access holes already, and if you reach in and hold on to the PEX, the squeaks in the floor go away. Crazy!

Here's another view. Again, thanks for any input on this.

I’ve installed a new picture window directly in front of my main-line-to-soil-stack connection in the basement. Because of this, I’d like to cut the soil stack down as low as possible while also lowering the main line. I’ll then cover it with a bench or something. Question: Can I replace the...

Just a quick follow-up. All the PEX for the baseboard heat was indeed oxygen-barrier. It was just two slightly different colors, and one type wasn't as shiny. As shown in the photos, the PEX is strapped directly to the floor trusses, which is COMPLETELY WRONG. This is the source of all the...

Thanks for the help with this. As a quick follow-up, it turns out this was my fault to begin with. In the basement, I had removed a wooden support under the PVC drain for the kitchen sink. This meant the sink tailpiece slip joint was holding up the entire waste line. No wonder the p-trap...