NOTE: If you can find out what model valve you have and get the installation instructions (available online too) it makes it easier to figure out by knowing if it comes with a pressure testing cap, etc.
As LLigetfa mentioned (and i forgot to) using a pressure testing cap or blank is an easy...
I wonder if you you have iron pipes feeding that bathroom.
If you do, it could be one or both are partially blocked (like arteries in an 80-year old man).
In a pressure balanced valve, if just one side is partially blocked, the balancing mechanism should reduce the pressure to compensate...
Either defective , or some debris (lime, solder, etc) got into it after install.
That happens to me every once in a great while, and occasionally after another plumbing job was done in our customers home.
I don't bother to use the test cap and just install the cartridge before pressure...
Anyone know of a universal 'slide-hammer' style cartridge removing tool?
If not, maybe i can make a million bucks :D
Right now i am developing a cartrige removal "Handy Kit":
Large vise grips
Large hammer
Larger hammer
band-aids
duct tape (for plumber's mouth to prevent cussing)
a...
Yeah - that 3/4" is a radical tilt! If anything it should tilt in just a tiny bit.
Most tubs will allow a tiny inward tilt (to avoid water running out and onto the floor) and still have good drainage from around the edges, and some have a nicely sloped rail and shelf area that drains water...
Only use no-hub couplings with a metal sleeve and NOT the grey Fernco.
Here is a way to avoid having to make a hole in the wall behind, as you can tighten the no hub coupling to the original copper pipe before setting the tub.
This way will also make sure the drain will be able to be...
By the "wrench " i think you mean the steel piece witht the slot for tightening the 'castle' nut. Yes, you can throw that away after you are done. I prefer to use two screwdrivers in an 'X' to tighten with, as i dropped the 'wrench' into a trap before and has to fish it out :D Using crossed...
It also may be that debris, or even a ball of solder, is blocking the hot side inlet to your valve. I have seen this happen few times after hot water heater replacements.
If so, hopefully there is a way to open a line below and let the water carry the blockage out.
Recently i had a hot-side...
thanks - I did replace the catridge, ran a wire through the port, and blew through the copper pipe leading to the valve. That part *seems* clear ... at least enough so the mixed pressure through the sink faucet being opened lets a fair pressure through the hot port while i have my finger over...
I have a friend .... no ... really!
She has a Delta pressure balanced valve about 3 years old.
She has galvanized supply lines and quite low hot water pressure.. but her cold water pressure is VERY good (near a river).
She told me that things have gotten pregressively worse over the last...
You are using primer? I can knock a fitting off if i act quickly but most often i find that if i have twisted a connection and in 15 seconds i realize the angle was off a bit, it is too late! i have to start cutting a new one. Isn't that typical?
PVC is tinker-toys for adults :D
I will give some responses to "bump" your post and see if others reply.
( I have the feeling that posts with at least one reply will attract experts eager to save others from bad advice :)
I am puzzled that the brass drain flange does not touch the base.
The ones i use have a slight bevel...
Using a pipe wrench on the bonnet nut while backing up with another on the valve body works well, but often there is not enough room for the thick jaws of a pipe wrench for backup and i use channel-locks. Any squeezing pressure on the bonnet nut seems to hold it tight against turning. I have...
I just got back to this thread , and i think i know the trap adapter you mean.
(see pic below)
That is designed to adapt from a 1 1/2" PVC trap up to the smaller diameter 1 1/2" Polypropylene drain/overflows.
Hopefully you have a 1 1/2" PVC trap. In that case you won't need an adapter- you...