Recent content by Myhouse

Too late now, but next time make sure you're using a 6-sided socket, not a 12-sided.

I'd use PEX supply lines over the stainless-steel braided lines. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Plumbing-Parts-Supply-Lines/Toilet-Connector/PEX/N-5yc1vZbqjnZ1z138l5Z1z13cg0

On the flex lines, is there a nylon thing between the brass nut and copper line? If so that is your dielectric union right there. Some flex lines that I installed years ago had that nylon thingy.

A few years ago when I checked the anodes on my indirect water heater tank, I put one wrap of Teflon tape on the threads when I reinstalled them. After checking it with a meter, I had continuity between the head of the anode rod and the tank body. I also thought of using aluminum- or...

For those that have boilers, get an indirect water heater and be done with all these problems.

What is the expected lifespan of a Watts 25aub pressure reducing valve? Mine appears to be experiencing pressure creep; I'll set it to 50, then a few hours later it will be 80-90. (No water heater action before, during or after.) I've been in the house 17 years, and the PRV came with the...

I'm too late here, but I would have recommended an indirect-fired water heater, if the OP has a boiler for home heating.

I never turn off the water to the washing machine. I do turn off the water at the main valve when I'm on vacation though.

Some background info: House was built in 1956. City water, has a Watts 25AUB pressure reducer at the meter. It's set to 50 psi now. (In March of this year I finally noticed the water was blasting out of the shower head, so I checked the pressure - it was at 85 psi! The locknut on the PRV's...

Since you have a boiler, ask them about indirect water heaters. No vapor ignition safety nonsense to worry about, which direct-fire water heaters require (in the USA anyhow). Plus, indirects have nearly zero standby heat loss.

Does anyone know where I can get a dam for the toilet tank? I have a 3 GPF toilet and would like to reduce it's water usage. I tried filling up a plastic jug with water and putting it in the tank, but the plastic is too buoyant and it rises up a little and moves around when the tank is emptied...

Try a piece of pipe. Seriously, use whatever socket you have, then put a 3 or 4 foot long piece of iron pipe on the breaker bar. That will give you all kinds of leverage. But - beware of the possibility of flying (face-first) in to the wall when the anode breaks free (or the breaker bar breaks!).

Tonight I looked at the nipple for the other toilet. Taking lessons learned from the first one, I got a magnet and checked the pipe. It's not magnetic, it's chrome-plated brass. But I had to take the valve off to have a look inside the pipe. Where is all my rust-colored junk coming from...

Thanks for the chlorine idea; I think I'll try that. I took pics of my solid supply line and responded in your thread. The thing that makes me think they are falling out of favor is that they're hard to find now. Not so long ago you could find these at hardware stores. Maybe now they're only...

Here's how the chromed brass/copper line looks at my house. The toilet it connects to is a 3 GPF unit, so it's at least 30 years old. The tank-side of the line is T-shaped. Slides out of the way very easily. In this picture, I pulled the yellow rubber gasket up a bit: The valve-end of the...