Recent content by msoultan

Sounds like a good reason to me :)

If you're curious, here is the response I got from Jobe: Overall it sounds like the Jobe is a more appropriate unit, especially due to the threads and it sounds like maintenance is easy. I think the fact that my local plumbing supplier carries them says that they like their product as well...

I've spent the past hour or so looking at all sorts of diaphragm float valves and the decision is either Jobe (originally linked above) or Apex (which is also Watts). The Apex is about $80 where the Jobe is around $280. Both of these units are soft-close, but we do have a pressure tank next to...

In my case I have 15 PSI at the pressure switch (so it's not 0), but why would you need some kind of back pressure to avoid cycling? Or are you saying it can't be so restrictive that it causes the PSI to jump up to 40? In my case the pressure switch is set for 20/40 so anything below 40 will...

That is awesome! How do you like them and are they reliable? They aren't cheap, but it's either my time or a nice valve that accomplishes the same thing, and less failure points than adding a solenoid valve. So, given the choice, would you go with this or adding a solenoid? I'm kinda leaning...

So the solenoid valve I found is a slow close to avoid water hammer. I specifically made sure to find one that didn't slam shut.

I would be curious about this solution - do you happen to have a product that you'd recommend? This is the current valve that we have: https://www.watts.com/products/plumbing-flow-control-solutions/float-valves-agricultural-solutions/float-valves/1000

The float switch that was previously used in the tank at the high level location is a normally closed SJE Rhombus float switch - looks like it was previously used to control the pump, at least that's what I'm guessing because there some NM wire running over to the pump station. So I'm guessing...

I was considering having the float switch directly control the pump (it's a common SJE Rhombus grey float switch with the weight), but then I'd have to run conduit and it's a long run (over 100ft) - would be much easier and safer to run a 24v control line and trigger a contactor instead. But...

Thanks for all the info! So there is no check valve at the tank - the only check valve is directly after the pump, before the pressure switch, so I think the water hammer is just from us closing the float valve at the tank by hand too quickly (which really wouldn't happen in real-world...

I'm helping a friend with his well setup and I wanted to get some advise. There's a submersible pump in the well which then leads to a check valve, then a T fitting for the pressure switch and another T for the pressure tank - unfortunately I don't have any details on the pump model or its...

So I'm a bit confused that you say only 5 GPM per house as that seems a bit low - just one garden hose could flow that much, and add that to someone using the garden hose and a couple other fixtures in the house and you're well beyond 5 GPM per house. I saw in another one of your posts you...

Yeah, that could be an option. I think I need to look at the costs and see which method would be more expensive and/or provide better service - handling it centrally or at each home - but I think it's worth looking into.

I thought that was the whole purpose of setting the tanks 2 PSI below the cut-in point - that way water is still being supplied while the pump is starting up: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/223798/why-is-the-recommended-pressure-for-a-bladder-tank-2-psi-less-that-well-pump-act Also...

Valveman, Thanks so much for the info! First, I added a few additional details to the original post because your answer brought up some items that might be an issue: ADDITIONAL DETAILS: - Max water level in the main tank is 19.1ft - The proposed location for the pump is next to the tank...