Recent content by MattBD

Seems like this was it—poor design. I am amazed that these interfaces are not standardized!

Here's a link to the manual (PDF). Step 4 is the one that says to use silicone under the drain flange (not on the threads, in fact it doesn't say anything about the threads). I used this silicone. Another poster said to use pipe dope. I was looking at this one for plastic pipes.

I can unscrew it. Here's what I'm working with.

Bumping for new problem. The sink is leaking at the drain. Water stands between the drain and the sink and, despite following the installation directions to use a silicone sealant, leaks onto the threads of the drain, then down the tailpiece and extension. How do I fix this?

Proof that I actually listened to the experts here. Still needed the extension but only just barely.

I couldn't remember why so I tried it again. The slip joint nut with the trap the right way is up against the 90 so I can't tighten it. Even if I did, it would flex the tailpiece to the side-it's that close. The extension+reversal gets the joint out of the way.

Next time I get to the store, I'll pick up a street 22.5, 45, and 90, a new slip joint adapter and a new trap arm. That ought to get me what Terry showed in the first place. I have about an inch left on the PVC coming out of the wall so I should be able to make one more connection once I cut it.

Looks like I hit dimension B at 4"

Thanks Terry, I did almost exactly that. A 90 seemed to fit better. I made a union slip joint with the scrap piece from the trap arm, so it's basically one extra joint. I did that so that I didn't have to cut the pipe at the wall. That trap said it's a reversible J-bend. It passes the initial...

I have a slip joint coupling coming out of the wall (cast iron to a PVC stub to the coupling) and am trying to connect the drain from a new sink to it. I purchased this P-trap kit and discovered that the space between the tailpiece and the wall tube was too tight to fit the trap bend. I got...