Recent content by Master Plumber Mark

Many toilet flanges are not perfectly flat on the floor and they still work fine... I have seen them a 1/2 inch above the floor and it still passed good enough just set the toilet and go buy a tube of AlexDap clear caulking for 4 bucks and put a large bead of caulking around the base of the...

well these 3/4 full flow ball valves cost me about 15 bucks each,,, BECAUSE THEY WERE NIBCO adn tehy are supposed to be the best quality available I can get a ball valve on amazon right now for 7 bucks from god knows where,,,, that is probably about the same quality or maybe better if I...

It should be fine if it is on top of the finished floor,,,,, just try setting it in place and you will see its gonna work ok

Just thought I would pass this warning on to plumbers using NIBCO brass sweat ball valves.. They are made in china now days and their quality has gone completely to hell in hand basket... The yellow brass will not solder correctly no matter how hard you try to solder it .... sand the inside...

I guess that you agree that those SS connectors are Dielectric too??? The SS connectors make short work out of a lot of tight situations and I have used them when coming off a main incoming line up out of a slab floor with no wiggle room to work with I thought that flex connectors were...

I totally agree with you...Dielectric unions suck.... I think they could have easily just installed a SS flex connector on that situation and it would not have had the stress on the lines and it would have worked for decades..... I have seen so much of this over the years..... I have found...

That could have been an easy fix if the guy would just have cut out more of the copper beyond that propress fitting . Heating up the copper and putting a slight bend in it to line up better with the steel pipe would have been the easiest way to resolve that issue... its called a "German...

If you are wise you just get yourself a normal common Rheem power vented unit and stay away from those other special units..... they cost about the same price on line but I think about the future servicability and I have never actually stumbled onto a direct vented heater in our area...

I got about 6 of them in stock laying around right now.... I also had the same issues trying to find them and the only place that even knew about them is wood brothers.... The screen goes into the out put side of the black bypass that goes onto the back side of the Clack control head...

These screens are new to me too....I get them from Woods Brothers out of Nebraska and Indianapolis.... I Cant seem to find them anywhere else but they are such a simple and easy way to keep the resin from screwing up the whole house..... if the resin rises, then it just stops the whole...

You need to just go get a new clack unit with the #10 resin in the unit.... dont fool with trying to resurrect that older unit......... Odds are that their is a good chance the resin just blew up and expanded due to the chlorine in the water we get this happening all the time with the cheap...

The Bradford white anode rod is located attached to the hot water side nipple which is very easy to replace... I would not attempt to change out a rod with a hex head that is basically been hammered down into the socket and wont come out without extreme effort and misery

So You want to be left alone to "Doing your own thing." I suggest you dont " do your own thing " even if you think you 100% know what you are doing You really dont want to tangle a-holes with the gas company or they can really make things a lot more difficult for you if they feel...

I think I would call the gas company and make sure of their requirements. and not go by what I have heard or been told.. Every gas line we have ever cut and run in a new home always just stubbed it out the side of the house..... The gas line was eventually run to that location but the meter...

Just throw another 45 on that line and point it down towards the ground.... maybe put a short nipple into the end and extend it downwards aabout 4 inches I would not worry too much about snow and you can always keep an eye on it you wont have a condensation problem and if you look on top of...