Recent content by Kreemoweet

Pictures above seem to show those flex lines are using the donut o-ring style washers. I encounter those a lot on garden hoses and they're terrible. I always replace them with ordinary flat garden hose washers. You can buy real 3/4 in. NPT flexible connector washers, I would suggest using them...

Basin wrench. Basin wrench. Basin wrench. It was mentioned above, but not emphasized enough. It is the standard tool for turning nuts up underside of sinks (i.e. "basins"). They come in different designs, lengths, and sizes. Every service plumber in the world has an assortment in his toolbox...

Different plumbing codes (and there are several in use in the U.S.) have different requirements. Sometimes VERY different requirements. If your local jurisdiction uses the 2018 IPC, then I suppose you are good. If not, then what it says in the 2018 IPC is irrelevant.

You're missing the thread tape or pipe dope on the the tapered pipe thread joint. Hand assembly tells you nothing. And tapered pipe joint fittings NEVER "go all the way".

A sweated joint does not have to have 100% solder coverage to be reliably leak-free.

Water is sneaking in somewhere behind the tiles. It may be prevented from running out at the bottom of the tiles due to the caulk bead, so flowing along the tub rim until it can exit at that corner. I've enountered this many times. Most tub rims I've seen are not conducive to good water...

The only reason to turn #11 is to set the proper height of the valve body #8 above the sink surface. This is done by hand, no tools needed! (Notice that the instructions say "Hand Tighten"!). It is #10 that is turned to remove the valve from the sink. As has been said, you can immobilize #11 (if...

"There is a garage above ... ".

It means 10 feet of water above any piping that is meant to be under test, plain and simple. I've seen plumbers temporarily attaching a 10-ft stick of pipe (can be any size) above the roof vents to make sure their test was all copacetic. I've heard a lot of inspectors will not be so demanding...

Gosh, lookit that decrepit old lead toilet bend! Guess how many minutes longer it'll last until it holes and starts leaking? Guess how much more of a hassle it'll be to fix it later, instead of now? Oh, and of course replacing it now means the flange height problem will also be solved!

Soft copper is miserable to work with, unless you just need a few short lengths with flared ends. It comes in coils, and is difficult to get any kind of straight without kinking. You will need big tubing benders and know how to use them, you can't just bend it by hand. It is also ovaled out by...

You need to be more specific. You can not use a cable with uninsulated neutral on a branch circuit, if that's what you mean by "service entrance cable". Also, multiwire branch circuits (i.e. with shared neutral) are certainly allowed, but it would be better to use a double-pole 20A breaker for...

Ever tried to roast the Thanksgiving turkey in a kitchen with no exhaust fan? 'Nuff said.

The bigger the pipe diameter, the greater the capacity to absorb shock, and the longer it takes to lose the air. Most of these little plunger-type arrestors I've dealt with barely work when new, and fail completely soon after.

No ones's mentioned yet the possibility that the male adapter has a leak in its threads . . . this could happen if the copper was not quite thick enough to support the depth of the threads cut/formed in it, somewhere in that threaded area. It seems we're running out of options here . . .