Recent content by Kreemoweet

You're not going to find replacement parts for that drain. Just buy a new Oatey no-caulk shower drain and use the parts you need. Looks like you just need the compression ring and the strainer. The plastic ones are dirt-cheap.

Most ordinary gas range shutoffs located at the floor behind the range are fairly easily accessible by removing the bottom storage drawer and reaching back under the range. I sure would like to know what "nondisplaceable valve member" means in the code excerpt in the first post.

I've never actually lived in a place where the water DIDN'T pool up on the edges of the tub. So it is very common. You can call it a "defect" if you want, but unless you have some specific contract language in your agreement with the contractor that specifically calls for that drainage feature...

Those dealios sure seem like automatic drain valves to me. Very common on irrigation systems. They have nothing to do with the "frost-free" or "vacuum breaker (AKA anti-siphon)" functions. They require all pressure to be released to drain, since it is the water pressure that keeps them closed...

Pictures above seem to show those flex lines are using the donut o-ring style washers. I encounter those a lot on garden hoses and they're terrible. I always replace them with ordinary flat garden hose washers. You can buy real 3/4 in. NPT flexible connector washers, I would suggest using them...

Basin wrench. Basin wrench. Basin wrench. It was mentioned above, but not emphasized enough. It is the standard tool for turning nuts up underside of sinks (i.e. "basins"). They come in different designs, lengths, and sizes. Every service plumber in the world has an assortment in his toolbox...

Different plumbing codes (and there are several in use in the U.S.) have different requirements. Sometimes VERY different requirements. If your local jurisdiction uses the 2018 IPC, then I suppose you are good. If not, then what it says in the 2018 IPC is irrelevant.

You're missing the thread tape or pipe dope on the the tapered pipe thread joint. Hand assembly tells you nothing. And tapered pipe joint fittings NEVER "go all the way".

A sweated joint does not have to have 100% solder coverage to be reliably leak-free.

Water is sneaking in somewhere behind the tiles. It may be prevented from running out at the bottom of the tiles due to the caulk bead, so flowing along the tub rim until it can exit at that corner. I've enountered this many times. Most tub rims I've seen are not conducive to good water...

The only reason to turn #11 is to set the proper height of the valve body #8 above the sink surface. This is done by hand, no tools needed! (Notice that the instructions say "Hand Tighten"!). It is #10 that is turned to remove the valve from the sink. As has been said, you can immobilize #11 (if...

"There is a garage above ... ".

It means 10 feet of water above any piping that is meant to be under test, plain and simple. I've seen plumbers temporarily attaching a 10-ft stick of pipe (can be any size) above the roof vents to make sure their test was all copacetic. I've heard a lot of inspectors will not be so demanding...

Gosh, lookit that decrepit old lead toilet bend! Guess how many minutes longer it'll last until it holes and starts leaking? Guess how much more of a hassle it'll be to fix it later, instead of now? Oh, and of course replacing it now means the flange height problem will also be solved!

Soft copper is miserable to work with, unless you just need a few short lengths with flared ends. It comes in coils, and is difficult to get any kind of straight without kinking. You will need big tubing benders and know how to use them, you can't just bend it by hand. It is also ovaled out by...