Recent content by justler

Here's the exact one I rented. Called in on a tuesday to reserve it for the weekend just in case. Told them a whole day rental, ended up being able to return it early for the half day fee. https://www.rentalsunlimited.com/rental-equipment/well-pump-puller/ It definietly would have reduced...

Ended up going with the 10SQ07-240 and the Lakos Sub-K 5-12gpm unit. Rented a manual puller wheel from local rental store (for $20) and had my wife walk the poly pipe backwards. Everything went pretty easily. Only problem I had was using the Lakos Sub-K with the 3" pump. Had to get two 3"...

I'll be dropping in an SQ pump, right now my pressure switch is a 40/60 with tank set to 38psi. When I do the SQ swap should I drop the pressure tank charge down to 35 and leave the pressure switch as is?

I'm thinking i'll go with the 240. If i'm reading the chart right with 315ft of head if i'm at the bottom, I'm pumping around 7-8gpm, 12gpm if i'm running and pump down from 50ft static to 100 ft (140+215). This would be the pump running about 6 mins or so (1.5 gallons per foot of 6" water...

Trying to understand the math. 175ft for the pump depth to top of the well cap for the lift? 140ft is the difference between the pump depth and static water level? Can you explain your calculations a little more? I guess what would be the downside with going to the 240 over the 200? I don't...

Hi guys, I'm spec'ing a Grundfos SQ pump because I need a low startup current and the SQ series offers startup current draw that's the same as the highest operating draw. I'd like to run the pump off a smaller generator and have room for my AC as well which I always got a micro-air easystart...

I thought I could use a rubber coupler to connect the sleeve to the pump but that looks not necessary according to what you describe, so just a 4" piece of the sewer pipe and a stainless clamp. Slits in it like you said and clamp the slits down so they hold to the pump. Similar to this video...

The only reason I ask is because if I buy the pump size the drilling/well company recommends and have a problem they will warranty it. Looks like I can get the sewer pipe locally from Home Depot. I just need a 4” to 3” reducer and some stainless worm gear clamps to screw it down and that’s it...

I was talking about the 7S07-15 which is 3/4. Looks like gpm at 180ft is 6.2gpm or am I reading it wrong?

It would seem to me at this point i'm going to need a new pump either way. You had mentioned the 10S07-12. would a 7S07-15 be a better fit or work as well? This is what a local well driller I called recommended based on the GPM refresh of the well I gave from the drilling sheet I posted...

Funny enough I just found the Lakos Sub-K and wasn't sure if it was snake oil type stuff or something that would actually work. This is something I would have had done prior to the last well pump being put in because I knew we had some sediment... It hasn't been this bad up to this point.

I think it is. I haven't seen this kind of buildup on my filter before. There is a decent sized clump you'll see. Usually it's just the silty stuff sitting with a small amount in the bottom.

I'm not sure that it's sand, but it is some kind of sediment. I have a 50/5 micron spun filter installed AFTER the pressure tank. So this sediment has been in my toilet tank since about 8 months ago (when we moved in), doesn't seem to be accumulating and was there prior to us living here...

I'm sorry, I should have said a pressure gauge and pressure relief valve. There is no check valve except for the brass one screwed in directly above the submersible pump down in the well (which it sounds like shouldn't be there).

Here are the Amp readings on each Leg (9.26 and 8.94) as well as a picture of the pressure tank. My plan is to drain the pressure tank out when the laundry is done, leave the drain valve open and just make sure the pressure is still reading 38 PSI.