Recent content by Justin83

No access from behind. Only access is through the cutout in the shower for the valve. From there, with a long drill bit, I can try adjusting the tension on the pipe to see if the diverter nipple levels out.

Thanks, terry! I thought about doing that. I've seen others suggest doing the screw locations, too. Any thoughts on the spout not sitting flush? Honestly, there are no leaks now, it's more just aesthetics and me wanting it to be perfect. From the pictures, would you just caulk it or try...

Thanks, jadnashua. Bending the pipe makes me nervous, so I think I'm going to chicken out on that one. I had a plumber out a while back to help me with a stuck cartridge and in the process he inadvertently knocked out the blocking holding the piping in place. He then put some metal...

Hi, folks. You've been a huge help in my previous questions and I'm hoping you guys and gals can set my mind at ease with these next few. These are in regard to a new shower diverter and handle/escutcheon that I just put in. 1. The top of the diverter sits fairly tight and flush against the...

As it turns out, the dripping comes and goes depending on how hard you pull up on the diverter plug. Seems a little flakey, but it barely dripped last night during a shower.

I actually did use some plumber's grease to help get the O-ring on and in place, so I don't think it's twisted at all.

Thanks for your reply, Reach4. In your opinion, if it's just some drips, should I just leave well enough alone? Any thoughts on those scratches going around the nipple being an issue?

Hello, everyone. I just replaced my diverter spout and I noticed that it has a pretty constant drip during showers. I double-checked a few times to make sure that the diverter handle was pulled up all the way and it was. The pipe coming out of the wall is a copper nipple, about 3 to 3-1/2"...

Just wanted to provide an update. I turned the water off midday yesterday to try to tackle this thing. Using a hacksaw and cutting along Plane A in the photo a few posts up (basically right behind the faucet handle), I was able to get the handle off. As expected, I went through the end of the...

Love the graphic! That was what I was trying to ask in words, but a picture is worth...

Tough to tell from the photo, I know, but I drilled the entire screw out. I can see the inside of the handle body. Not sure if it's holding on from burs, or from years of residue or buildup, or what. One thing is for sure, the set screw is no longer. So, if I make the cut at Plane A, I would...

Sorry, duh moment. Didn't even think of a hacksaw. Would this be preferred over using a puller? Would you make the cut right behind the handle? In your opinion, do you think the piping in the wall is ok after drilling out the set screw? It's not like I hammer drilled it, and I held the...

Hey, Cacher Chick. Just curious, why do you say that I will need some new parts anyway? And what parts would need to be new? The new handle and faucet came with a new valve body, and it is supposed to be the same, so I might be able to get some parts from that... Can you separate the stem...

Hey, Reach4. If I go this route, I figured I would try to score the center of the faucet body enough to drill a seat for the puller. That will be tomorrow's after work fun. For now, the water is back on and no leaks yet, so hopefully all of the vibration from drilling didn't damage the piping...

Thanks for your reply, CountryBumkin. I'm hesitant to pull too much on the unit, because I'm not sure how much the piping behind the wall can take. Just drilling the set screw out created a fair amount of vibration through the system, although I did dampen it somewhat just by holding it...