Recent content by Breplum

Idiots that didn't know enough to use all stainless steel hose clamps...gosh

If there is no cap to unscrew, then possibly they are push-on handles though I've never seen large knobs pop on to nylon stem heads the way Grohe did in the 70s

You need a professional plumber...there is so much messed up piping there it looks like hacks did it all.

Toto Entrada has a very small tank width for sure, and chair height. They flush very well. What a POS rough in you've got. Code min. is 15" to wall.

Basics: 1. Shower drains must be 2". Depending on shower head flow, you might get away with 1.5" drain, though rare to find 1.5" shower drain fitting. 2. AAVs must be permanently accessible and be min. 6" above the p-trap

Best practices is to stub out with copper made for adapting to pex, then use conventional stops

With little DWV experience, we always say to hire a pro to help you. There are so many ways to mess up in a slab that it is not recommended that DIY do underslab plumbing. I have seen too many failures to list.

American Standard Cadet 3 series and also Champion 4 series (excul. one piece) flush very well and are rated on MaP testing site at 1,000 grams Toto Ultramax II do not rate over 800 and we never recommend any WC that is not 1,000. Ultramax never rated well in any iteration I recall...

I've installed dozens of Navien tankless using 2" pvc straight up through the top of old B vent. I drill hole, push pipe through, caulk with silicone and use a rain collar and silicone the margins and have never had an issue.

atmospheric inhalation of the few plastic fittings in the waterway is extremely minimal.

You may want to search "funnel drain". There are many varieties but all typically made specifically for a drain body...

I have witnessed many hardwood floor refinishers use their home made clamp-on heavy duty extension cords with spring loaded clamps connected directly to the house main panel as the only way to run without trouble.

Delta has lifetime warranty. Call them for replacement part.

drilled in centers should have no impact and be code allowed. You will likely need a right angle drill.

no building dept would have schematics. Motors are supposed to be on dedicated circuits (this, off the top of my head and not from an electrical contractor). A powered attic fan will only have a minimal effect (I've had them and replace when they die) compared to improving insulation. of course...