Bannerman
Well-Known Member
The arrow is shown in the diagram included in post #11 of this thread.There is an arrow in there that I can look at?
The arrow is shown in the diagram included in post #11 of this thread.There is an arrow in there that I can look at?
The Hach 5-B test is most recommended.While on the subject, what do you use to determine your water hardness, before and after? The softener I bought came with a test strip, but I would really like to check it more than once, before and after.
Your BF setting is 16 minutes X 0.25 BLFC = 4 gallons X 3 lbs/gal = 12 lbs salt dissolved per brine fill cycle.I've only regenerated twice so far, shouldn't I have used only 16lbs of the 160 lbs I added?
Thanks for the link. I searched it and watched a Youtube video. Looks a bit pricey for occasional home use, but certainly something a pro might use. I ended up buying a set of 50 WaterWorks 480008 Total Hardness Test Strips for about $12 that tell me hardness within a couple grains per gallon and do what I need. It confirmed my hard water was between 7 and 11 gpg (I've been using a setting of 10 gpg) and my soft water was zero. It's not soft to the point of sliminess, which is fine with me. I'll probably test it again one the softener is ready to recharge. I see where a few reviewers said the couldn't tell the difference between the colours, but I'm partly colour blind and had no problem. I would imagine some people would also have trouble seeing when the Hach 5-B test transitions from red to purple to blue.The Hach 5-B test is most recommended.
Many municipal supplies obtain their water from multiple sources, and each source may have a different hardness value. Water hardness may vary throughout the day due to water demand within the town, distribution system maintenance, fire hydrant use etc, causing a change in ratio from each source that arrives at your home.It confirmed my hard water was between 7 and 11 gpg (I've been using a setting of 10 gpg) and my soft water was zero.
I've lived in this location for 35 years and had water softeners for most of that time. The 10 gpg setting is what I've used for years. Here is an image of the hardness strip instructions:Many municipal supplies obtain their water from multiple sources, and each source may have a different hardness value. Water hardness may vary throughout the day due to water demand within the town, distribution system maintenance, fire hydrant use etc, causing a change in ratio from each source that arrives at your home.
When a softener is programmed for lower hardness than is actually present in the water, the softener's capacity will be consumed more quickly than anticipated, and regular regeneration may not necessarily restore all of the capacity that was consumed. As this occurs on a repeated basis, hardness leakage through the softener will continue to rise, and you may eventually notice the softened water will no longer remain soft prior to regeneration. As 1 gpg = 17.1+ ppm hardness, soft water containing 15 ppm hardness will 'feel' less silky than water with 6 ppm hardness, even as each sample will test at 0 gpg.
As your test strips have indicated a high of 11 gpg at your location, it is then advisable to program your softener setting for 13 gpg so as to anticipate occasions when incoming hardness may be even higher than usual, to reduce the chances the softener's capacity will become totally depleted. Once capacity is depleted, then regeneration using a large quantity of salt (15-20 lbs per cubic foot of resin) will usually become necessary.
To restore some additional consumed capacity in addition to that presently being regenerated, a manual regeneration directly following the next programmed cycle may be effective.
Throw each into bypass in turn. When the sound stops, you found the valve with the bad piston or seal. I am not a pro.My softener and carbon tank regenerated at 12am and 2am last night but I hear a trickling sound coming from the drain in the picture, is something wrong or does it take awhile to drain out after backwashing?
Contact your dealer ASAP. These are not covered by the warranty because they are considered wear items. The sooner you make contact, the more likely the problem is going to get a free response to an infant failure or a courtesy.Ouch so it’s a bad seal or piston? This system is brand new that’s disheartening.
Give the drip some time to stop. The softener tanks are slightly elastic.I put both units into bypass and I still hear dripping from the drain line, shouldn't that be impossible?
I narrowed it down to the carbon tank and ran two extra cycles but it’s still dripping. What area should I focus on if I take the valve apart and inspect it to fix the dripping?I would recommend running it through an extra cycle. A little piece of debris, Teflon tape etc can get in the seals and cause a drip to the drain. You can also take the valve apart with ease and visually inspect everything. It is usually something very minor. Here is a video on the tear down and rebuild.
This is awkward, but...
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