The water had been running into the overflow tube. I had what looked like a new Korky QuietFILL Valve. I put it in and at first the level was below the overflow tube. Some hours later it was running into it and above the white part of the Korky Valve. Could someone suggest what the next step should be? Thanks
Water going over Korky QuietFILL Valve
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Thanks for the reply. I actually had it pretty low. The water was nearly covering the white top part. I thought maybe the flapper was dirty so I just cleaned it and raised the valve a bit. It stopped the water below the overflow like it did before but I could hear hissing from the valve. I imagine when I go down there in an hour the water will be going over the overflow valve again.
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
Replace it would be my choice.
I replaced it. I still hear a slight hissing and see water occasionally dripping from the back side of the white top area. Bummer! The one I put in a few days ago was sitting in a drawer in it's opened package so I thought it was likely unused. I couldn't remember. But now this one I just bought. Is it hit or miss with these things or another problem? If the flapper was bad would the valve hiss and drip out the back? Thanks
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
IF the water level is not rising anymore, turn off the water and let things sit, overnight would be good, but it probably won't take that long. Check the water level in the tank. You'll probably find that the water level has dropped, indicating that the flapper valve needs replacement. Some water can leak out of the valve some while it is open...that's normal. If the level isn't rising and going down the overflow, it sounds like that portion of the problem has been solved.
One visual symptom is if the flats around the edge are cup shaped verses horizontal..if so, the rubber has gotten soft and the flapper needs to be replaced. If it looks good, lift it, rub your finger around the seat to see if there's any crud and it's smooth.
One visual symptom is if the flats around the edge are cup shaped verses horizontal..if so, the rubber has gotten soft and the flapper needs to be replaced. If it looks good, lift it, rub your finger around the seat to see if there's any crud and it's smooth.
OK. Thanks for the reply. Still hissing a bit and dripping about 20 a minute. Not running over the overflow yet (after 2 hours). I turned the water off now and will check it in the morning. Flapper is American Standard round push on. I cleaned it earlier but it's probably pretty old.
OK. I was at Lowes today but they didn't have the American Standard Flapper or any that looked similar. Attached is the one in there now. I'll be looking for an inexpensive pressure
guage while I look for the flapper.
Attachments
Found the right flapper (actually made by Korky) and put it in. The water gets to an inch of the top of the overflow tube after flushing. When I look at it later its about 1/8 of an inch from going over but seems to hold there. I don't see any dripping from the top of the Korky Valve and can't hear hissing anymore. Right after I put in the flapper and the water still came up, I lowered the valve but the water just seems to go over the marked water line on the valve. Guess I'll be be looking for a pressure checker next.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
The higher the water pressure, the shorter the cap seal will last. Plumbing code says it should not exceed 80psi. NOte that if you have a closed system (a check valve, sometimes installed by the utility company, or, a pressure reduction valve) the pressure will spike high enough to cause the T&P valve on the water heater to open unless there's some place that is leaking to relieve that excess pressure. Now that you've stopped the leak with the new fill valve, look at your WH after using a lot of hot water, and see if while it is reheating the cold incoming water, if the T&P valve now opens a bit. That's a sure sign you have a closed system or if you have an expansion tank, it is either defective or improperly precharged.
OK. Thanks for the comment and to the others. With my beginners level I had to look up what at T&P valve was. So I'll keep an eye on that. The last 3 days the water level stayed about an inch from the overflow. I did turn the water spigot down to a small flow in case pressure was the problem. I'll be checking the pressure next time I get to the hardware store. Still not sure who the culprit was. I ended up replacing the Korky Valve twice but then after the 2nd one didn't keep it from going over the overflow I replaced the flapper. Then, it was coming up a bit but after 2 days it seems to have stopped . So maybe the flapper settled in better?
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Depending on the brand and how it was stored, high heat can cause the flapper to warp a little. The other thing that can be problematic with a flapper is if you have not adjusted the chain length properly. Too long, and it can get caught underneath the edge and may not flush the design amount since it may not get the full stroke from the lever. Too short, and it can hold the thing slightly off of the seat, and it can leak. There should be a little slack, but not a whole bunch. Putting the end in the incorrect hole of the rod can pull the thing off to the side too far, and it may not flop down and seal all of the time.
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
Normally turning the water spigot down will not reduce pressure, It just reduces flow rate.
Can you take a picture of the inside of your tank and post it here ?
Good Luck.
Appreciate the replies. I finally got a pressure meter. The 1st one leaked pretty bad but showed 140 so I didn't trust it. Took it back and got 2 more since they look kind of cheaply constructed. These both showed the same 140 so I guess that's what it is. The toilet is behaving. By the way it's in the basement. Maybe the new flapper did the trick. The sink next to it was dripping about 1 a second one day when I was looking at the toilet (a few weeks ago). I turned the underneath valve down but since then it stopped and the valve is back to where it was. So now I wonder if it was the pressure doing that and if it's varying. I know little about this area but from what I read that seems too high.
If you open a faucet to a dribble, what does the pressure gauge say?
If it is over 80 PSI, you need to get a pressure reducing valve and thermal expansion tank installed. If these are installed, you need the PRV to be repaired or replaced.
If it is over 80 PSI, you need to get a pressure reducing valve and thermal expansion tank installed. If these are installed, you need the PRV to be repaired or replaced.
OK. Thanks I'll be testing it that way soon .
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
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