UF cable continuing down the well

[MarkHash]

My chart says my 14 gauge is good for my motor rating and distance, I have enough left over for the drop down the well casing, the 14 gauge UF is surprisingly flexible, why not just measure it off, cut it and continue down the well with it? This is assuming I can separate the UF material sufficiently at the splice to the pump to make a good crimp/solder joint.

 

[Chris75]

I would be very impressed if in fact #14 was good for your well... so how deep is it and whats the HP of the motor?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MarkHash]

1/2 hp, 100' depth, plus 100' to breaker. Chart in the manufacturer's pump manual says over 400' with that setup. 300' with 3/4 hp, 250' with 1hp. 1hp is only 760 watts. Or will I run into problems during re-entry into the earth's atmosphere? Motor startup will be three times the current draw, but only for a moment. My question was more on the line of is there anything about the physical characteristic of the UF that would prohibit it being secured along down the well drop pipe. I know how stiff #12 and #10 is, but 14/2-wg UF is very flexible. I would love to avoid another splice under the well cap.

 

[Leejosepho]

... is there anything about the physical characteristic of the UF that would prohibit it being secured along down the well drop pipe.

No. It could be held in place just like any other wire. Just be sure your connections at the pump are well-crimped and completely covered with water-tight shrink tube.

 

[PEW]

Doubt very much that it would be to code! It is also a solid conductor, which would not hold up very long with the pump movement. My recommendation, would be to do it right with submersible wire.

 

[Speedbump]

Did you mention what voltage your 1/2hp pump was. They come in either 115 or 230 volt. The 115 volts rating is 100 feet and 400 with 230 volts. Big difference.

bob...

 

[Chris75]

Doubt very much that it would be to code! It is also a solid conductor, which would not hold up very long with the pump movement. My recommendation, would be to do it right with submersible wire.

I agree, individual heat shrinks would not be to code on UF type wire.

 

[MarkHash]

Yeah I have been "hashing" over this in my head. Also, since there would be no splice at the top I have been going thru in my head how I would lay it out for insertion into the well given the remainder is in a coil buried right up next to the standpipe. It IS a 220 volt, I can read charts and have lots of electrical experience, but the fact that after exposing the internal solid conductors I would basically have THHN wire and not stranded waterproof submersible pump rated wire leads me to go ahead and purchase the pump wire. Thanks guys!

 

[Speedbump]

I have never used anything but solid Copper Submersible Wire. It comes PVC jacketed and is twisted. Works fine. The stranded wire I am familiar with used to come with a rubber insulation that over time would develop water bubbles. It was essentially leaking into the water and into the ground as it aged. Not a good thing to put into wells or to run to the house.

bob...

 

[Gary Slusser]

In rock bore wells I always used stranded, 3 or 4 conductor flat cable. No twists on the drop pipe insured the least possible rubbing damage potential between the cable guards. A 12 gauge minimum.