Tub waste/overflow question....

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by 01sesedan, Apr 7, 2009.

  1. 01sesedan

    01sesedan New Member

    Messages:
    32
    Install help....Tub waste/overflow question....Please

    Been a long time since my last post and hope you guys can help out. The first time around was a shower, now it's a tub.

    I'm in the process of remodeling the bathroom and wanted to know which....waste/overflow kit you prefer? PVC or Brass? Do they work the same? Does on have an advantage over the other?

    Here's the one I purchased but wonder if this one is correct?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Old brass waste/overflow...

    [​IMG]



    The tubs existing drain pipe to the P-trap is 1.5" brass or copper.. It has a male adapter on the cast iron p-trap and the 1.5" pipe coming up to the tub.

    Install question?

    How would I go about connecting the new pvc waste/overflow to the current brass/copper pipe that goes to the p-trap?

    Would I have to use a boot since both pvc and brass/copper are the same size?

    Would I have to remove the brass/copper male adapter at the p-trap and replace with with 1.5" pvc?

    Was hoping there was a way for the pvc pipe that connects to the waste/overflow tee to slip into the drain pipe that's connected to the p-trap.

    I hope this make sense, trying to word it as best as possible.


    Your thoughts please..

    Thanks

    Joe
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2009
  2. 01sesedan

    01sesedan New Member

    Messages:
    32
    Looking for some input on how to connect the overflow/waste to existing pipe connected to the p-trap..

    Thanks..
  3. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,452
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Can you post a pic of the drain pipe and trap?
  4. 01sesedan

    01sesedan New Member

    Messages:
    32
    A couple of pictures. Space is really tight, just stuck the camera in there to see what it gets.

    The tub is not in it's final position.. We're still trying to figure out how to make the connection. We installed a Fernco coupling on the 1.5" copper pipe, now we have to align the 1.5" pvc to make the connection. At this point the tee is making contact with the boot, we didn't install a 1.5" pvc pipe to the tee yet.

    So far, it seems that the living room wall would need to be cut out in order to get access. Just to tighten the clamp on the pvc side of the boot. And the water supply line is in the way also. I can never win...

    Any suggestions on another way to do this?


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. 01sesedan

    01sesedan New Member

    Messages:
    32
    [​IMG]

    Some like this...

    This way I could connect the tee directly to the boot....
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2009
  6. Phil Clemence

    Phil Clemence New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Only use no-hub couplings with a metal sleeve and NOT the grey Fernco.

    Here is a way to avoid having to make a hole in the wall behind, as you can tighten the no hub coupling to the original copper pipe before setting the tub.

    This way will also make sure the drain will be able to be tightened into the drain shoe AND the overflow can be aligned and tightened without putting stress on the rest of the drain assembly.

    You will be able to dry fit the drain/overflow assembly and then test fit the tub to make sure everything lines up.

    To avoid any interference from the Overflow section:
    Use two pieces of PVC instead of the one solid piece between the overflow and the T. Couple them with a no hub coupling about 2/3 of the way up to the overflow.
    Align the tightening screws of the no-hub so that you can reach them by reaching over and down behind the tub.
    Tilt the overflow back away from the tub slightly more than you need for the overflow gasket and barely snug it down for the test fit of the tub. (That will make sure it does not move the rest of the drain assembly due to touching the tub)

    That way you can make sure the drain shoe is aligned perfectly with just enough room for the drain shoe gasket with NO interference from the overflow section.
    Once the tub is set, and the drain tightened into the drain basket, you can reach down behind and "fine-tune" and tighten the overflow section.
    Hope that helps
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 10, 2009
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,508
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    drain

    The "copper pipe", (actually brass), is part of the old drain, not part of the drainage system. You have to remove it from the "trap adapter" and slip nut. To use the drain you show, you also have to remove the "trap adapter" from the riser, then use a transition coupling, similar to a No-Hub coupling to connect your 1 1/2" PVC tailpiece to the 1 1/2" steel riser.
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