I am trying to stall an overflow drain in a new tub and when I dry fit the wedge seal against the overflow drain the seal is not even. If I try and get an even seal, the pipe is no longer vertical. I contacted the tub vendor, but they have no technical knowledge of their product, they just recommended a different drain which will not work for me. Does anyone have experience with this issue, I was thinking of using a flexible pipe, or is there a thicker wedge seal? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Tub overflow drain seal issue
- Thread starter Erik63
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Jeff H Young
In the Trades
before i decide how long my bottom piece of pipe needs to be i determine where I want the santee to be . Some times I lean the overflow to get the angle I want on the angled washer. I try to work fast when gluing up the overflow, screw the cover on and squish that angled washer a bit. I probebly could have , or should have looked into getting differant Wedge seals (overflow gaskets I call them ) its not usually a problem but Ive had some that just dont match the tub. I also sometimes use silicone It adds to a better job with a bit more insurance. Its not that hard to fit these up right but Ive repaired dozens of leaky overflows a very common cause of leak and call backs on new home projects.
In a nutshell the fit up on tub overflows is a little tricky to dial in I kind of figured it out right away in plumbing and make little adjustments the overflow pipe dosent need to be absolutely plumb hope this explains it a little
In a nutshell the fit up on tub overflows is a little tricky to dial in I kind of figured it out right away in plumbing and make little adjustments the overflow pipe dosent need to be absolutely plumb hope this explains it a little
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Breplum
Licensed plumbing contractor
We often use appropriate no hub type couplings to help absorb the skewed angles.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Breplum has a good idea especially if its already glued up but this might be a case for finding a better fitting gasket some are just thick and spongy and not tapered .
technically a no hub band should be whats concidered a shielded coupling approved for plastic to plastic use. In reality though on 1 1/2" and even 2 inch a regular no hub should be ok but dosent meet code Breplum knows code on this stuff but I know I slip and call them no hub not really meaning it literally, kind of minor thing but making sure Eric63 knows what to use . good luck on it!
technically a no hub band should be whats concidered a shielded coupling approved for plastic to plastic use. In reality though on 1 1/2" and even 2 inch a regular no hub should be ok but dosent meet code Breplum knows code on this stuff but I know I slip and call them no hub not really meaning it literally, kind of minor thing but making sure Eric63 knows what to use . good luck on it!
Tuttles Revenge
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Overflow gaskets are generally terrible at best. Breplum mentions using no hub bands for 1.5" IPS size which will work fine.
Watco makes several tub waste and overflow kits that help in situations where its difficult to get angles lined up. Here is one example. The overflow fitting has threads that actually go through the overflow hole of the tub, so there is no possibility of mis-alignment. It has a big flex gasket that conforms to about any shape. And the overflow tube is somewhat flexible too to make up the remainder of the angle.
Watco makes several tub waste and overflow kits that help in situations where its difficult to get angles lined up. Here is one example. The overflow fitting has threads that actually go through the overflow hole of the tub, so there is no possibility of mis-alignment. It has a big flex gasket that conforms to about any shape. And the overflow tube is somewhat flexible too to make up the remainder of the angle.
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