Tree fell on Well Pump PVC pipe= Rust, dirt, chain saw shavings in spigot water

[JimSelena]

For sediment and rust flakes, the Pentek Big Blue 4.5 x 20 housings give good capacity at a reasonable price. You might put two in series. There are a lot of cartridges to choose from.

I suggest that you get your water test results before going further. You may well need more than a cartridge filter.

Thanks for all the feedback. Well (no pun intended), I dug around the PVC and see the metal pipe. The PVC has a crack about six inches below the top of the steel pipe casing. The PVC is still rock solid with the crack. I think I will seal the crack with PVC glue, and install the top piece that sits above the steel pipe that cracked to smitherines. I already installed a coupling with two female ends to accept the foot long PVC pipe. Since the crack is below the steel housing what else can I do? I imagine replacing the steel pipe is not worth the expense.

The water is pretty debris free now, a few wood particles from the chain saw shavings that seeped in after the tree fell on the well pipe top.

Another question. The kitchen sink faucet is VERY slow. I removed and blew compressor air to clear all the lines, but after re-install, the flow is very slow again. Can sediment (sand) be clogging the line to the kitchen faucet causing a slow water flow?

Also, see two pics. There is a steel rod assembly next the the steel pipe; is this the ground?

Thanks to all who have assisted me.

 

[JimSelena]

Thanks for all the feedback. Well (no pun intended), I dug around the PVC and see the metal pipe. The PVC has a crack about six inches below the top of the steel pipe casing. The PVC is still rock solid with the crack. I think I will seal the crack with PVC glue, and install the top piece that sits above the steel pipe that cracked to smitherines. I already installed a coupling with two female ends to accept the foot long PVC pipe. Since the crack is below the steel housing what else can I do? I imagine replacing the steel pipe is not worth the expense.

The water is pretty debris free now, a few wood particles from the chain saw shavings that seeped in after the tree fell on the well pipe top.

Another question. The kitchen sink faucet is VERY slow. I removed and blew compressor air to clear all the lines, but after re-install, the flow is very slow again. Can sediment (sand) be clogging the line to the kitchen faucet causing a slow water flow?

Also, see two pics. There is a steel rod assembly next the the steel pipe; is this the ground?

Thanks to all who have assisted me.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JimSelena]

If there is a check valve at the well head and the spigot is before the check valve and the pressure valve is after the check valve the water will run a little and then stop usually. A couple pictures would help determine what you have.

A few pics. Thanks for any advice

 

[JimSelena]

For sediment and rust flakes, the Pentek Big Blue 4.5 x 20 housings give good capacity at a reasonable price. You might put two in series. There are a lot of cartridges to choose from.

I suggest that you get your water test results before going further. You may well need more than a cartridge filter.

Should I buy the filter without the pressure relief valve?

 

[JimSelena]

For sediment and rust flakes, the Pentek Big Blue 4.5 x 20 housings give good capacity at a reasonable price. You might put two in series. There are a lot of cartridges to choose from.

I suggest that you get your water test results before going further. You may well need more than a cartridge filter.

Thanks for the help. Really appreciate.

 

[JimSelena]

A few pics. Thanks for any advice

Smooky,

I repaired the PVC and all looks very nice with a new well PVC pipe cover. There are two wires coming out of the pipe, both are yellow. Does it matter which one goes to the black or white wire coming from the house current? Also, when I connected the electricity, the pump pressure reservoir inside the house built up pressure to about 65PSI, so I turned the water on to a hose I ran out side (valve to hone pipes was off so no water went through pipes), and after a minute the pressure drops to about 10 PSI. I recycled the water valve off and let pressure in the tank build again, but the same results, the water drops to about 10 PSI. I'm thinking the pressure relay switch is bad.

 

[Smooky]

It sounds like somthing is up with the pressure switch. It could be cloged up or have some trash in it .
Check this youtube link out:

 

[JimSelena]

It sounds like somthing is up with the pressure switch. It could be cloged up or have some trash in it .
Check this youtube link out:

Thanks Smooky!

Question. The pressure should stay constant at around 40 PSI with a hose attached to the water outlet fully open to clear any sediment (the spigot that is located before the house inlet T valve); correct? Kinda wordy; I hope you understand. I just ordered the filter.

 

[Valveman]

It depends on the size of the faucet. If that is a frost free hydrant it could easily let out 15 gpm. And if you have a 10 gpm pump, the pressure will drop to 10 oe even zero. Do a bucket test to see how much it is putting out. If it is putting out a lot of water, 10 psi is a good thing for cleaning out the well.

 

[JimSelena]

It depends on the size of the faucet. If that is a frost free hydrant it could easily let out 15 gpm. And if you have a 10 gpm pump, the pressure will drop to 10 oe even zero. Do a bucket test to see how much it is putting out. If it is putting out a lot of water, 10 psi is a good thing for cleaning out the well.

Thanks Valveman

 

[JimSelena]

Thanks Valveman

I want to thank all the folks who assisted me with this endeavor. Filter installed; all systems green. See pic

 

[ACWxRADR]

Jim and Selena,

I read through this thread and unless I missed it, I didn't notice anywhere that sanitizing your well was discussed.

Because of the damage to the well head and entry of soil, sawdust and other debris, I highly recommend that you sanitize your well with chlorine shock treatment. You may also wish to apply Nu-Well 100 or 110 in conjunction with Nu-Well 310 and maybe Nu-Well 400. Just don't use any Nu-Well treatments and Chlorine at the same time. The acid and the chlorine can react chemically. You can use one after the other, once the well is purged of any high concentrations of either.

For the chlorine shock treatment, you can simply use chlorox unscented chlorine bleach or you can buy shock chlorine marketed for either wells or for swimming pools. Chlorine laundry bleach contains sodium hypochlorite and pool shock is usually calcium hypochlorite. The pool shock contains a much higher percentage of readily available chlorine (roughly 73%) and therefore you use less much of the product. Chlorox bleach is somewhere around 5% chlorine. you can calculate which one is more affordable, but I think that the pool shock (calcium hypochlorite) provides a better sanitizing effect.

The pool shock calcium hypochlorite comes in tablets or granules. You add this to a five gallon bucket of tepid or warm water to dissolve it and then pour that bucket down the well. Agitate the well water (run the pump with a garden hose output back down the well) for several hours. Then let it set overnight. Overpump the well the next day to remove all the chlorine until the scent of chlorine is no longer detected. Then you can run the water back through the normal house plumbing. You can also run this chlorine through the household plumbing to sanitize it, too. Just be sure not to use any of this water for drinking or cooking or washing for a day until all the high concentration of chlorine has been expelled.

Gordy (AKA RADAR)

 

[Reach4]

Congratulations on the filtering success. Usually you can reuse the O-ring, but keep an extra Pentek 151122 O-Ring handy when changing the cartridge; a ring failure would put you out of service. Use a very light coating of silicone grease on O-rings.

I like http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/index.php/maintainance/disinfection-and-testing Try to limit how much chlorine goes into the septic, and dump the majority into the ditch. I would drain the WH of chlorine-free water before trying to run chlorinated water through the WH and hot pipes.