Toilet Flange

[frank in ohio]

I'm remodeling a small bathroom and after removing the toilet, I noticed that the metal in the flange was pretty much rusted away. The flange is black plastic and is glued to the outside of the black elbow underneath, which has in inside diameter of 3 inches. I tried using one of those stainless flange repair kits, but there isn't much of the remaining flange to get underneath. So I cut the plastic off as close as I could get to the pipe that it is glued to. I am trying to avoid cutting off the plastic underneath and put new pieces back in because there isn't much room to work in. First question, is it possible to somehow get that remaining section off that is glued to the outside of the 3 inch pipe. Or maybe to state it better, can two pieces of plastic that are glued ever be taken apart again. And secondly, at Lowes I found a flange that fits down inside of the 3 inch pipe and has like a big rubber band that supposedly makes a seal once you push the flange down inside of the existing pipe. I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried one of these. Could there possibly be a problem with flushing the toilet, as it is probably original (30 years old) and therefore not one of these low "gallons per flush" models that they sell now.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

thanks
frank

 

[Gary Swart]

Avoid fitting a new flange inside the 3" pipe. Yes, it can create problems. It can be done OK with a 4" pipe, but not 3". Removing ABS or PVC joints is possible by carefully cutting the old fitting into strips and using a screwdriver to peel the strips off. Then you have to smooth the resulting surface enough for the new fitting to get over. Do you have access to the underside of the bathroom? If so, I'd remove the whole mess of flange and closet bend or elbow by cutting the pipe off and adding new pieces. If you can't do that, frankly (no pun intended) you might be time and piece of mind ahead to hire a professional. The last thing you want to have is a blotched toilet drain.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

Also note that (especially if you are remodeling and have the chance), the proper position for the flange is on TOP of the FINISHED floor, if done this way, you'll have the proper height for a long-term seal. If the toilet was sealed in place on the flange properly, it wouldn't be rusted out. Make sure when you reinstall the toilet that it doesn't rock, since this can break the wax seal.

 

[frank in ohio]

Yes, I can get to the underside. The problem is that in this section of the house, there is another toilet on the opposite side of the wall where this one is. So there are like 2 of these flanges from different toilets that come down into the sides of this (I'm sure there is a plumbers term for it) thing that also has sink drains coming into it. It's as if the whole house converges into this "thing". But between the closet elbow in question and this "thing" that everything connects to, there is probably about 10 inches or so of straight black pipe where I suppose I could do the cutting and re-glueing. I would be very happy to try to make the cuts in that glued piece of pipe first and see if I can get that off.

I very much appreciate the suggestions.

thanks
frank

 

[Jadnashua]

While a glued coupling is by far the least expensive, with that much room, you could also use a nohub connector that has worm clamps and a metal reinforcement band on it to connect the new to the old.

 

[Gary Swart]

The pipe is black, so it is ABS. Be certain that you get ABS fittings for replacement. When you cut the pipe, be sure you leave a good stub for the coupler to slide onto. As I visualize the job, you will need a can of ABS solvent, a coupler for the initial connection, a piece of ABS pipe, a closet elbow, and perhaps another short length of ABS depending on how far you have to come up. Then a glue on a new flange that sets on top of the finished floor. Be sure to screw the flange down into the sub floor with stainless steel screws. I assure you this will be the best way to remedy you problem.

 

[Redwood]

Pity you didn't post while the plastic was still intact. There is a repair ring that I would have recommended that would have solved your problem.

 

[Rburt5]

You're getting yourself into a very, very messy job. I would ask plumber to come out and give you an estimate. The estimate may be less than you think. It can't hurt. This job might take you 8 hours, but a plumber could have it done in less than 2, with minimal materials, and you don't have to worry about getting crap (literally) all over your head, arms, clothes, and floor. At the very least, you could ask him how he would fix it, then do that yourself.

 

[rjboykin]

I don't mean to hijack this thread but I have question in relation to the Toilet Flange. I took out the old ceramic tile and backer board that was previously install. The floor is cement slab so i was just going to put the new title right over the slab, so should the tile be install under the toilet flange, leaving the flange extend higher then the tile, is that the right way? I figured if the flange was lower the toilet would not fit.

 

[Redwood]

The flange should be on top of the finished floor. I would suggest starting your own thread and posting a picture.