Tiled Doorway In Adjoining Areas

Users who are viewing this thread

d.d.

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Saskatchewan
Hi! New girl here...a question for the Group. Using 1x2 ft ceramic tile on the diagonal in the bathroom whose doorway is immediately adjacent (90 degree angle) to the main back door, visible from the kitchen area. I plan to use the same tile in front of the main back door for estethic reasons. Is it customary to have UNCUT tiles cross over the threshold area under the door when the same tiles are being used? My goal is to have a uniform floor material look. If there are structural reasons for not using whole tiles under the door, please articulate that. Oh yea, I'm the home owner & GC & worker. Thx in advance!
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
Is the subflooring continuous across that threshold? How big is the whole area? Does that area get sunshine from a window? It is often a good idea to use an expansion joint across rooms, but it depends somewhat on the size of the area. For aesthetic reasons, continuing the patter across the doorway looks nice, can work, but it can be tough to lay out and the overall size of the field can make a difference. Maybe post a rough layout of the rooms with dimensions, and more specific help can be provided.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
John has his opinions, not always applicable to all situations, but he said about what I said. Depending on how the house was built, especially if that doorway and wall is not load bearing, and the area being tiled isn't huge, and, if it doesn't see differential heating because of solar or other situations (maybe a heating duct running beneath it), it makes things simpler. Without being there, it's impossible to bring up every possible situation, and, while you can choose overkill if you want, it's also more expensive if it's not needed...it's not overkill if it IS needed to be reliable, though, but without knowing your situation, one solution does not fit all.

FWIW, cement has been used to set tile for centuries...modified thinsets only came about in the 1950's. Done right, the end result is going to be there until you choose to remodel the next time. Modified thinsets have their use and place (and it is numerous), but not everywhere for everything in all circumstances. IOW, you choose what you need based on the methods and materials you choose for the installation you have...not a blind adherence to one broken record.
 

d.d.

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Saskatchewan
ROSES to johnfrwhipple & jadnashua for your replies to my questions.

Unfortunately the public bickering between you is unprofessional. Start your own thread.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
Specific answers to unknown situations are guesses.

FOr a successful tiled installation, first, the structure has to be stiff enough to support tile (typically they use L/360 for that with ceramic tile, L/720 for natural stone). THen, you need proper subflooring, installed correctly to account for deflection between the joists. THen, there are numerous TCNA methods described in the handbook that show how to install the actual tile and have it be successful. IOW, there is no one way that works in all situations, with all materials, in all places. SOme methods are rated residential, some heavy industrial, and what may be good for one is not likely good for the other. The industry guidelines are a minimum, they have a certain margin of error about them (they are tested multiple times to verify that they work). Some never like to utilize the minimum, and especially where it may not add much to the cost or complexity, going overboard may be reasonable, or if there is uncertainty of the original assembly (the test procedures are with new, properly installed materials - you often may not be starting with that, so more can be justified, sometimes).

Advice is free. If you follow everything John says, you'll spend more time and money and MIGHT not achieve any improvement in the end result, and he has shown some methods that literally failed. I tend to believe the manufacturers know their products and have satisfied their many thousands of customers to have stayed in business and expanded. That John choses to ignore that fact and tries to reinvent the wheel on some things is fine for him. It just doesn't always correspond with reality or a budget. You don't have to spend huge amounts for an end result, but you do need to do what you do well enough. It's your decision on what is more than enough, and in that, I abide by the industry standards, not John's.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks