Threaded tub spout blocking

[AH81]

Ive been remodeling my bathroom with a lot of help from this forum, but I am having all the copper soldering done by a plumber.

Per his recommendation, I added blocking with clips for the tub spout. Said he like it really tight with no movement.

Im almost done, Hardiebacker and tile up. He came and solder on the threaded male adapter for a Moen tub spout. Only problem is its too tight. I can barely get 2 turns, its upside down, and feel that if I turn it anymore, Im going to crack a tile. I have not been able to get him to return.

Im going to either learn to do this myself or hire another plumber to fix it.

2 questions:
1. Is the blocking too close to the 90? I can move it up.

2. Would it just be better to remove the blocking all together and allow the copper pipe to flex when threading on the tub spout?

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

1. no.
2. no.

when threading on the tub spout?

The spout threads on? Some of those are tricky to get to the right length. Some have margin and are easier to get just where you want them. The pipe should be cut and the threaded adapter should be soldered on after the finished wall is in place.

What Moen spout are you getting? Many use a set screw rather than screwing onto the pipe.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[AH81]

Its a 5 1/2" Moen tub spout. Came with the Caldwell Posi-temp tub shower kit. It threads on, not a slit fit with a set screw.

Yup the finished wall is in place. Im learning that they can be tricky and started to wonder if adding the blocking was a mistake.

 

[Reach4]

You could remove the spout. Remove the pipe clamps. Rasp out a small notch/groove for the pipe in the blocking. Screw the spout on. Restore the pipe clamps.

The rasping would be minimal. You are close as it is.

 

[AH81]

Removing the blocking to rasp it and reinstalling it would be impossible. Cant remove it without cutting it in half or removing the copper pipe

I believe the threaded adapter has 5 threads. How many turns is acceptable to hold the spout on?

Considering having it resoldered a little loose and shimming between the pipe and blocking.

 

[Reach4]

I was thinking of rasping in place with a curved hand rasp. With the spout off and the clamps off, I have to believe there is enough flex to let you get a rasp behind the pipe. You would only need to rasp where the pipe touches the wood now. There are 14 threads per inch. That means that you would need to rasp enough to get the pipe 1/28 of an inch closer to the wall. That is 0.071 inches.

If the rasp is not good for you, how about sliding some 60 grit sandpaper behind the pipe (grit toward wood). Slide that around behind the pipe. You will move that pipe 0.071 inches pretty quickly.

Of course you could document your efforts to get your plumber to fix it. I presume you already paid your first plumber before the job was done. Let him know that you would like to avoid having to bring in another plumber and to sue him in small claims court for the rework.

I am not a plumber.

Edit: another alternative: remove the spout. Put on a lot more PTFE tape. Screw the spout back on. Stop turning when the spout is aligned correctly.

 

[AH81]

I have not paid the first plumber for his most recent work. I think he knows he screwed it up and has not sent me bill in 2 months. Had to focus on other house projects before returning to this one. He used to be a good plumber, but now is the "boss" and has guys working under him. He was busy the day he came in and rushed the job. Disappointed.

I do have another plumber coming out to look at it. Well see.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Jadnashua]

When they installed the cbu, did they screw into that blocking, or is it just attached from the ends? If it's not attached to the cbu, you could probably remove it and replace with a thinner piece. IF it's screwed in place through the cbu, forget that.

How about a picture of the finished side that shows how much is sticking out?

For what you may pay a plumber to fix the problem, you could probably pick up one of the Delta spouts that has a much more flexible mounting method. Their adapter could probably screw onto the fitting that's there, then the spout independently screws onto their adapter. So, for that to work, what's there now has to be within certain min/max from the wall.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

There would be nothing wrong with cutting the existing blocking out and slide a new one in a foot higher.