A picture is worth a thousand words.
That could be normal before a second has elapsed. I would try giving it 5 seconds for the current to come down.Ok, put the amp clamp on this morning, reading way too high at 29 - 30a so I shut it right down. Appears the pump is zapped?
EDIT: I now see the 1-inch pitless on the invoice.he black pipe comes out not in line with where we thought given where it sees daylight and there's a split in it a few inches out from the casing but it doesn't look like a new split and since we know the well was fine a few years ago, I doubt that's the cause of any issues but either way, since it's not a big dig, we'll likely have that moved so it's in line since I assume a newer style cap would be used when the pump gets replaced.
That would either be a 5.5 inch ID casing or a 5 inch, depending on the accuracy of your measurement. Your 18 inches corresponds to 5.73 inch OD, which is too small for 5.5 inch casing. Either is big enough to pass a flow inducer sleeve past a regular trapezoidal pitless.The well casing coming up measures just over 18" circumference so if my math is right, that's a 6" OD.
That could be normal before a second has elapsed. I would try giving it 5 seconds for the current to come down.
I suspect you don't have a pitless adapter, but rather an elbow of some sort through the casing. When you get that pulled, They will probably put in a pitless adapter. If you dig out the place for them to access the existing fitting and where the new pitless would go, that might keep the cost down a bit.
That would either be a 5.5 inch ID casing or a 5 inch, depending on the accuracy of your measurement. Your 18 inches corresponds to 5.73 inch OD, which is too small for 5.5 inch casing. Either is big enough to pass a flow inducer sleeve past a regular trapezoidal pitless.
They may also raise the casing to newer standards. Or maybe that will be fine, since it is still safe and grandfathered.
I think pulling those 4 screws to lift the cap will not be in danger of dropping anything. But still get other opinions.
It's pretty fancy having the drilling company name actually cast in. I was picturing a plate with the name stamped or engraved in. The drilling company will be glad to see the photos, I suspect. I wonder if after investing so much in those round caps, they were slower to start using pitless adapters.
I would love to but we just went down, took the bolts off and let the ring slide down and that cap won't budge. There's a groove on the overhang that has a rubber gasket in it from what it feels like. We took a rubber mallet (because we didn't want to risk cracking the cap with a hammer) and that thing won't budge. Whacked under the lip, directly sideways and on top and it's like the rubber gasket has welded itself there from when it was put on. How hard can you whack on it??That is just a pitless cap. Yes you can take it off. It is not holding the pump up. There is a slide on the inside of the pitless adapter that is holding the pump up. Take the well cap off and you can see the top of the pitless.
Maybe hit the bottom of a scrap of wood with a hammer, and let that wood press the cap up.
Or maybe lift some with a car jack etc on one edge, and tap the other side.
And then there is heat.
Yes.Got the well cap open with the help of a floor jack. It's a 5" ID casing, is that still enough for a flow inducing sleeve?
I am not sure the schedule 40 would clear the pitless. So test the clearance before building.
What is the distance from above the pump's water inlet where you would clamp and seal the sleeve to the pump, to the bottom of the pump's motor? (Extending further below the motor is preferred when there is sediment suspended in the water)I don't know if that would be long enough?
What is the distance from above the pump's water inlet where you would clamp and seal the sleeve to the pump, to the bottom of the pump's motor? (Extending further below the motor is preferred when there is sediment suspended in the water)