Should I Replace This P-Trap Assembly?

[Baumgrenze]

I have a leaking 1-1/4" under-sink brass drain line. It was installed with 'stock' square-cut grey washers. I did a search and found a strong recommendation for 'Han-tite" washers on the Ridgid forum. I tried searching for them and only found them at Hodes, the source cited in the Ridgid post. They look well made. Can anyone else vouch for them? If so:

1) Has anyone found a seller who sells by the 'each' on-line (eBay, Amazon, etc.)?
2) Are there 'nearly as good' versions that are available by-the-each?

Thanks,
baumgrenze

 

[SWong]

I know exactly what you mean when you stated "square cut" grey slip joint tubing washers. Home Depot includes them with each piece of thin walled brass tubing you purchase. Sometimes they work and occasionally they refuse to seal properly which is why as a homeowners I stock a few of every variety. You might try using the "beveled" pliable variety which HD also stocks in plastic bags. Sealing issues can also be from the cheapo zinc coated slip joint nuts which I detest. EBay is my best friend when it comes to stocking up on these type consumables. I especially like the real chrome plated solid brass slip joint nuts (both 1-1/4 inch and 1-1/2 inch sizes). You do have to purchase quantity lots of 25/bag which seems a lot however you will be amazed over the course of 10 years how many you use for both sink and flushometer repairs. In answer to your ask check out link below...you will have to purchase in quantities to make it worth having to pay for shipping and minimum lot sizes....

http://www.hodesco.com/default.aspx?page=item detail&itemcode=50-509

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Baumgrenze]

I know exactly what you mean when you stated "square cut" grey slip joint tubing washers. Home Depot includes them with each piece of thin walled brass tubing you purchase. Sometimes they work and occasionally they refuse to seal properly which is why as a homeowners I stock a few of every variety. You might try using the "beveled" pliable variety which HD also stocks in plastic bags. Sealing issues can also be from the cheapo zinc coated slip joint nuts which I detest. eBay is my best friend when it comes to stocking up on these type consumables. I especially like the real chrome plated solid brass slip joint nuts (both 1-1/4 inch and 1-1/2 inch sizes). You do have to purchase quantity lots of 25/bag which seems a lot however you will be amazed over the course of 10 years how many you use for both sink and flushometer repairs. In answer to your ask check out link below...you will have to purchase in quantities to make it worth having to pay for shipping and minimum lot sizes....

http://www.hodesco.com/default.aspx?page=item detail&itemcode=50-509

Thanks, SWong, for your insights.

I just found out that I can edit both title and content on a discussion thread. I hope my edited title will result in more good advice from this remarkable community.

I'm ready to give up on the zinc 1-1/4" slip joint nuts and replace them with quality 1-1/4" chrome brass nuts. I realize I can buy them in bulk from Hodes after registering and pretending to be a professional plumber. Are there no other sources?

I've attached an image of what is currently installed and still leaking. It is 17G chrome on brass and it was installed in 2010 when we remodeled and installed the sink and cabinet holding it. The inset shows the plastic parts used by the general contractor's project supervisor to install the sink in 2010.


On 12/31/19, as I attempted to reassemble the joints with the green (labeled for plastic only washers) from HD. I noticed that the tailpiece coming down from the popup on the sink was ~1/8" too long. It caused a gap between the tailpiece to the drain connection and the trap. I said, "aha, this caused the leak." I grasped the sink tailpiece firmly and unscrewed it. I noticed that it had torn threads, so I documented that with photos and removed the popup from the sink. Sure enough, there was brass from the tailpiece in the first few threads. I dug that out and squared up the threaded end of the tailpiece and screwed it back in using PTFE tape. It was no longer too long. I took the time to lube the threads on the zinc nuts with some lithium grease that somehow escaped the first hazardous waste purge in preparation for our move. They screwed on and off smoothly. I reattached the p-trap using the new green washers from HD again and tightened the nuts just slightly beyond hand tight. The outflow end of the p-trap leaked slowly. I tightened the nuts a bit more with a Crescent wrench and it still leaked. Am I correct in understanding that too tight is as bad as not tight enough?


How should I best use my rapidly evaporating time to set things right? I can't find brass nuts to replace the zinc ones locally. I couldn't find decent replacement p-trap this week. Perhaps CalSteam in Redwood City (the biggest local plumbing supply house) will have a new stock of p-traps sometime later this month. They are out of stock now. The local big box stores have 22G cheapo wonders with zinc nuts.

What are reliable brands for a 17G p-trap assembly I could try to source elsewhere locally once business starts in earnest again next week? Many of our reliable supply houses have closed recently.

Are there other possibilities I've failed to consider that might work better?

FWIW, I inquired at the desk of our major supplier if I could purchase a threaded tube like the popup tailpiece and was told I needed to buy a popup assembly. I found that in the downloadable Hodesco catalog Tubular section that they can supply a 12" 17G chrome/brass tube (threaded both ends) that is probably what I thought I wanted (Item # 51-276, 1-1/4" x 12," Chrome 17 Ga., $12.55.) Perhaps others also sell these. I don't have the time to search, but I thought I should share what I discovered.


Thanks,

John

 

[SWong]

Sometimes the easiest appearing undersink drain lines can be a royal PITA to remedy. You didn't mention if this is a kitchen sink or bathroom sink and if the sink is a solid cast iron or just a stamped SS sink. I dislike stamped stainless steel sinks because they have a nasty tendency to flex ever so slightly which then causes your joints to also move which is a major no-no. Your best bet is to chase down real chrome plated solid brass slip joint nuts (eBay is my best friend for items such as this). Again it feast or famine when you attempt to chase down solid brass versus the cheapo zinc coated pot metal slip joint nuts. If you need this fixed quickly don't rule out also using pvc slip joint nuts which will seal amazingly well when you torque down on them with a channel lock plier....just make sure you also use quality beveled washers versus square cut rubber washers which never ever seal reliably....at least for me! Darn shame we are opposite sides of the coast as I could give you a few real brass slip joint nuts from my."nut and washer" horde. Don't give up as your current tale of woe is real simple to remedy. Finally if your situation is a kitchen sink stay with all metal waste lines (versus pvc or plastic). Frequents pots of scalding hot pasta waster thrown down the sink will degrade plastic over the long run.

 

[Baumgrenze]

SWong, thank you for your kind response.



The sink is a Ronbow ceramic vessel Model: CB4002 Round Ceramic bathroom sink mounted on Cesarstone on 2 layers of 3/4" plywood.




Should I be concerned that when the p-trap was installed in 2010 the popup tailpiece was slightly too long (1/8 - 3/16"?) so the installer forced the slip joints to mate even though the faces did not align?.


Is there any chance that the p-trap was 'bent out of shape' so that now that the parts align, the p-trap really does not?



I'd also like reassurance that the green tapered washers from HD (marked for plastic) are a better choice than square cut ones from Ace Hardware.



My 'rush' is that we are scheduled to move to Charlottesville, VA next month and there are a lot of other things to get done, too. Soon I'll be closer to where you are.


I don't know if you've ever tried to install a 16" round vessel sink with a single handle faucet (HGrohe) where the popup handle and the 2 stainless clad feed lines all run up a ~1-3/4 OD tube and the popup lever arm is too short to reach the space where the popup handle or actuator rod ends up under the sink. I've tried multiple solutions, none of which has been completely satisfactory but Rube Goldberg would be proud.



Thanks for your patience.

John

 

[SWong]

John, from the picture posted by you earlier you can see the p-trap has leeway and can swivel hence I don't believe your p-trap is bent or distorted in any way. Don't get overly hung up over the fact I prefer green tapered washers over square cut washers. Use whatever gets you the desired result. I have no reason to question your installers work as it appears very decent from what I see in your posted picture however the adage always holds true....measure twice before cutting when he installed the original pieces. Push come to shove, you can always call in a pro if time is precious but be prepared to pay whatever the prevailing rates are for your pro. Here in NYC a plumber's truck roll costs a initial $150. The plumber's initial "walk into the home" is followed by his hourly rate plus costs for new parts (plus his markup). Look's like you have a total of four (4) joints ...more joints mean there are possibly more places to tighten to avoid leaks. Picture I've attached shows my recent bathroom renovation with just 1 less joint and yes, my waste lines were far from perfect in lining up so it can be done and involves just a tad more tightening to eliminate leaks and drips. Your picture clearly show lots and lots of undersink space which to me is a joy to work on and involves longer runs of waste line tubing which is a good thing.