Schluter Profiles

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by DougB, May 26, 2014.

  1. DougB

    DougB Member

    I found it very difficult to find any info about how to install the Schluter profiles. Like how do you hold them in place, etc.

    The reason to use 'some' Schluter is that if the tile has bull nose - I've found it to be 3" wide - looks like shit around a door or a corner. I used the bullnose around shower niches, but on the corners (3 or them) the Schluter really looks superior - IMO.

    Well here's what I did. First I wanna tell you that I did not attend any stinkinnng 3 day workshop - I'm an engineer (electrical) so why would I need any stinkinnng Schluter workshop. Electricity, tile, just about the same...

    Two methods: I've used hot gule - seems to hold it in place. Second was to use small pieces of plywood - and clamped it in place - this method works really nice. The main thing is that you want one of corners set - so don't do it until the next day!

    Schluter.jpg
  2. RedShoecounterbalance

    RedShoecounterbalance Member

    Messages:
    363
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Jim and Dana are on their way..... Stay tuned
  3. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,058
    Location:
    New England
    What you did should work, but except where you are going to be walking on the profile (i.e., on a floor as say an expansion joint or a transition), they said in the class it works out better to just place the profile there dry (no thinset underneath it), spread thinset over it while trying to key it into the holes, then set your tile. The profile will stay there after the first tile is up, and as you add more, you can still adjust it slightly to get it perfect. On those that have a hollow edge, it adds strength if you fill it with thinset. It makes it less likely to dent if it gets hit hard. I've put up a few using that technique in the workshops, and it seemed to work fine, and that's how they demonstrated it prior to turning us loose to practice and reinforce what we'd been shown.

    A little judicious use of some masking tape at one end while you start setting your tile may help, but, as I said, once you get a tile on, the thinset bond of the tile over the profile will start to lock it in place firmly, but you can still make minor adjustments as you go, if required.

    When used on a floor, spread your thinset, install the expansion joint, and set your tile against it. This ensures there is 100% support underneath both the tiles and the joint.

    As an expansion joint in a corner or edge of a shower or room, set the thing in place dry, spread thinset, install the tile on top of it.

    Almost all of the profiles have a built-in stop to provide a grout joint so the tile is not butted up to it too tight. Some of the SS ones do not - that stuff is just too stiff to form into the shape that includes the tile spacer, and you need to do that on your own. Some of the corner expansion joints have a pocket on one side, and you don't grout that joint...you slide the tile into that pocket. That particular type is great for hiding minor imperfections as you have the nice straight lines of the profile, and the edges of the tile are hidden...it can make a wavy corner look perfect.
    Last edited: May 26, 2014
  4. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

    Messages:
    4,230
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    Non-Ferras Chop Saw blade.

    Hot glue gun.

    Ardex 8+9.

    Shims.

    I think Jim uses Hair Spray. Or is that for his Ditra installs - can't remember.

    Use the Right size profile (i.e. 1/2" for 3/8" tile)

    If you want something sexy - check out the profiles from Butech. Top Shelf Baby
  5. DougB

    DougB Member

    Yeah, it cuts with a regular tile saw blade.
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