Sand Point Well Jax, FL HELP!!!!

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by Trafalgar, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. Trafalgar

    Trafalgar New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    Hello Everyone,

    I am new to this. I have talked to numerous people in the well business and irrigation business. Heres my setup. I have right now, a flotec 1/2hp on a FLotec 19 Gallon pressure tank. I have 3 well points driven, first is a 10ft Brady to a depth of 30ft, Second is a 4ft Brady also 30ft, Third is a 4ft at 20 ft. I have a brass check valve approx 1 foot from pump and tank on 1 1/2 line that is used after the point where all three wells are connected together. Thes static water level in all 3 wells was avg 8 ft. I started with just one well point and got no where! I was pumping about 3 gpm, with all three wells I hit a grand total of 6gpm. Best guess for my irrigation system I need about 10gpm. The heads on my system are hunter 4" pop up rotors 6 of those, and the rest are all Pop Misters or standing misters, They are divided into 3 zones. Zone 1 is 3 standing misters, and 5 pop ups. Zone 2 is the same. Zone 3 is 6 4" pop rotor type. I don't know the model numbers on the heads as they were installed before I moved in. I am also losing the prime on the pump. The first 2 wells have 3" casing driven to 20ft on each one and then the point was driven 10ft past. Any help would be appreciated on this matter. I am ready to pull it all up and throw it in the garbage!!!

    Traf
  2. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    You should throw the Pump and Tank in the garbage with it.

    You either have air leaks causing you to lose prime or that two inch casing is allowing air in around the screen. I'm not too clear on what you did.

    When you wash in a well like you did, the two inch is usually pulled up after the screen and pipe is put down. I'm guessing you just put these things in without even test pumping them since they are at differing depths. This is another no no.

    bob...
  3. Trafalgar

    Trafalgar New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    Bob,

    Ok, If I read you right I should remove the 3" pipe I have in the ground? my well pipe is 1 1/4 all PVC, It is a slotted Brady 4'. Right now I have, 3 well points not just one. Reading on the other forums I should attach a hand pump one at a time to the well points to see if I have good water flow? My question( I tried looking at the other threads on the forums here but could not locate where you described how to check for good water. I can tell you from 8' down to the end of the points around 30' is all solid water. I live in Clay County Fl so I think you don't live too far away from me. So guessing the wells will be similar in theory. I know the flotec is garbage but right now is all I can afford until I get more. Should I possibly, go to a galvanized slotted screen as well? and galvanized piping too?
  4. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    Brady plastic screens do not let much water through. There are screens out there that do much better. Remember you are driving pipe blindly into the ground, you don't know what size the sand is that you are going to put this screen into. So you don't know what slot size to use. Next, you need to test pump these wells every five feet or so to see if there is any water there.

    I am not sure why you used three inch pipe, but if you can get that into the ground, you might be able to put a two inch screen down below and get more water. It's all a crap shoot the way your doing it and since I dont' know your area, you would be further ahead to call a local well guy that can advise you.

    bob...
  5. Trafalgar

    Trafalgar New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    What brand would you recommend for a point? What should I look for from the Pitcher pump when I use that? I plan to go buy one tomorrow and disconnect each well from the system and start with the pitcher pump to see what I have. Also going to use the ball valve method you told someone else on the forum as far as developing the well.
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2008
  6. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    Johnson is one that comes to mind. I haven't used Well Screens in over 25 years since moving to Florida. They are all Rock Wells here, so I'm sure a lot of other brands are available today. I have a half dozen or so Stainless Steel Slotted Screens that I will sell for $50.00 each to get rid of them. They are between 12 and 25 slot. 25 slot being 25/thousands of an inch opening which is pretty large for just sand. Again, you don't know whats down there. If you get the Pitcher to Pump Water, 10 to 15 gpm would be a great number to shoot for.

    The Ball Valve idea was Sammy's not mine. I had never heard of it until he wrote about it.

    bob...
  7. Trafalgar

    Trafalgar New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    Saga continues,

    Bob,

    I did as you said and purchased a pitcher pump. By my best guess on point #1 about 5gpm. I think I am going to pull up the PVC and go with a stainless point #12 maybe and work that until I get to a good water flow. I am pretty sure however I found my air leak. When I dug up the point and associated connecting pipe I found a section of pipe I did not Glue(smacks self in the head). I glued said section and primed the hand pump and it held. Pumped around 100 gallons or so off the well. The water was running pretty clean after developing as stated earlier and seems to get about 6 gallons per minute. I am letting the electric pump sit with a prime now. I am going to give it about an hour or so and then go try and it and see if I still have a prime if so I know I solved my air leak problem. Will post with a reply in a bit.
  8. Trafalgar

    Trafalgar New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    Ok, I think I got the air leak problem fixed now. It was that section that wasn't glued. I let the pump sit with a prime developed for about an hour or so. When I went back out the pump immediately started pumping water. So I kept the prime. Before I lost prime within about 10 to 15 mins or so. So problem one is fixed now.

    The second problem is the amount of water. I need about 10-12 GPM I would think to run my sprinkler zones. After an hour of debate is there a possibility of find a 2" screen? If so I think I may go with the bigger pipe for a better flow and amount.
  9. Trafalgar

    Trafalgar New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    No Go

    Well this morning tried the pump and had lost the prime so Still gotta work on air leaks.
  10. speedbump

    speedbump Previous member

    Messages:
    4,540
    Location:
    Riverview, Fl.
    It could be air leaks or the Check Valve not holding tightly enough. Without pressure on it, the water could slowly run back.

    A two inch screen might get you a bit more water as long as you stay with a slotted one. The Brady's and Hardware Screens are a joke.

    bob...
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