Replace Flange?

Complete professional replacement, PVC insert, or top flange portion only

  • Go with the pros

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • PVC insert

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Brass ring

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1

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william.duncaster

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Hello!

I have seen water coming out from under the toilet periodically. So, I went under the house to see what's going on and found mild to moderate water damage and definitely some moisture - definitely have a problem.

Given we have one toilet in the home, I went to the Hardware Store and bought an oversized wax ring, just so that I can have a look. I pulled up the toilet took some pictures, threw down the new ring, and replaced the toilet.

Observation 1, toilet had a new rock to it. Observation 2, water "leak" was gone. 6 weeks later, water is back.

In the photos, you can see the flange is more or less shot. It's an old cast iron thing from the 40s and needs repair. The front 1/4 of the flange is simply broken off. Left and right are ok (though the right bolt is mysteriously stuck in there - perhaps plumbers putty - and I can't get it out).

I am happy to pull the thing up again, but want to poll the experts. Complete professional replacement, PVC insert, or top flange portion only? I gotta say, I'm sacred to death about cracking the cast iron pipe.
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/push-tite-closet-flange-for-cast-iron-white.jpg
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/toilet-flange-brass-regular.jpg

How to stop the rocking? My 3 year old basically torques this thing every day...

Thank You,
A
 

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Reach4

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Should this be in "Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice"?
No.

I would go with 2 Saniseal rings if the surface around the hole is more than 3/8 below the floor surface, and one otherwise. While the directions don't call for it, I might add a little wax below to fill in imperfections. Should not be needed however.
 
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I remember back in 2005 or so, we had to replace the toilet at my relative's house, and when we pulled up the toilet, the cast iron flange was completely non existent. IIRC, we had to buy a PVC insert thing and a waxless seal. The toilet I installed was a 1970's Briggs Abingdon. Around 2011, they replaced it with a POS Glacier Bay.
 

william.duncaster

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@Reach4 good call. I think that will be perfect given the little ones will be climbing all over this thing. Do you think it needs a brass ring on top to better support the old flange? Seems like Sanseal and Brass ring could be the magic here.

@TheUniversalDave1, I think the PVC insert is also a good way to go, but perhaps a last resort.

Anyone else out there?

Thank You,
A
 

Reach4

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If the closet bolts are held down securely, I don't think you need to add a brass ring or repair ring. If you do add a ring because the bolt retention, I would put wax under the new ring.
 
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It was a last resort all right. The floor was rotten, the flange was rotten and leaking into the crawl space, and the toilet was pretty much a rocking chair.
 

william.duncaster

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@Reach4 How do you apply wax on the Sanseal? I was thinking about buying a wax ring, then spinning the green thing on top of it.

Also, what about sharp edges on the protruding pipe? They might actually puncture the Sanseal. For this one, I think a small spacer might be in order.

Thanks,
A
 

Reach4

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@Reach4 How do you apply wax on the Sanseal? I was thinking about buying a wax ring, then spinning the green thing on top of it.

Also, what about sharp edges on the protruding pipe? They might actually puncture the Sanseal. For this one, I think a small spacer might be in order.

Thanks,
A
I was thinking maybe take a wax seal and slice off a quarter inch or less horizontally with a big knife and use that. Or just form some wax into a smaller ring -- maybe 3/8 diameter-- and fit that underneath. Again, it is probably totally unnecessary, but as an amateur, I tend to go for overkill.

I would not worry about puncturing the Saniseal. It is resilient foam rather than an inflatable.
 

william.duncaster

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@Reach4 I guess my concern about a puncture is that it might expose and area that will actually hold water. My guess is that this device has a waterproof film. I wonder what's behind the film.

Thanks,
A
 

Reach4

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Cacher_Chick

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I will start by evaluating the condition of the subfloor. If the wood is damaged, the floor needs to be replaced and then a new flange can be installed correctly on top of the finished floor
 

william.duncaster

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@Reach4 deal is done. Good call on the slice of wax. I pulled up the toilet and found that the flange simply was not level any more. So I put about 3/8" of wax all the way around and put the Sani Seal on top (collar suspended downward). Hope it works.

Wife is talking about a new toilet now, off course. So when I pull it up for the third time in about 1.5 years, I'll report back on any findings of moisture.
 

hj

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1. The front and rear of that flange have absolutely NOTHING to do with it sealing the toilet
2. That flange also has absolutely NOTHING to do with the toilet "rocking".
3l The bolts will come out with a little tough love.
4. Unless you go to work on the flange with a hammer and chisel, you are NOT going to damage it or the pipe.
5. All you should need are two long brass closet bolts and a #10 deep wax ring seal.
 
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