Removing Unwanted Electrical Box

[Verdeboy]

Is that on the same circuit as the kitchen plugs?Are the kitchen plugs gfi protected? I would'nt leave that in the kitchen area if I didn't plan on putting it on the business side of a gfi...thats how people end up on a slab in a hospital basement somewhere.Don't bury it either!Kill it and remove it.
(2 months ago I opened a wall under a stairwell,found a live wire from a dryer plug taped with masking tape,not even wire nuts!fire waiting to happen...)

I'm going back there today to find out if it's on its own circuit. As far as GFI's go, my understanding is that only outlets near sinks and tubs are supposed to be protected.

I'm not going to comment on your last experience, because that is gross negligence and incompetence.

 

[JWelectric]

Please post a picture of your finished work so we can see the great job that we know you will do.

I picture you gritting your teeth as you wrote this.

Not at all, I am serious, I would like to see the device mounted in a box and plastered into the wall with the device being left flush. No matter now many receptacles are around it would be the easiest fix to your problem.
Use this box or one simular to it

Only receptacles in a kitchen that need protecting with GFCI are those over the countertop.

What I would like to know. What is that item between the paneled wall and the plastered wall? Is that some type of cord?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Verdeboy]

That's not a paneled wall. It's a free-standing kitchen cabinet that the electrical box has been so professionally mounted to.

That "cord" is really a 1/4" copper supply line for the frig icemaker.

 

[JWelectric]

That's not a paneled wall.

Okay now just change the device and put it in a box such as the one posted and plaster away.

Nothing to be cut loose and nothing to remove, quick and easy.

 

[HandyAndy]

take some plumbers strap or a couple of brick ties, or similar, take a handy box like is there, screw the strap to the back of the box,

what you should have a box with some straps on the back side of it so there is some thing to anchor it with,

if you need to dig a little more of the adobe out then do so to get it to fit, and and if you have dug out behind the existing stucco a little so it will key in behind it.


attach the flex coming through the wall there to the best suited knock out of the box, put the box into the hole, take some coat hanger or wire and make a few V shaped rods, or used screws or similar, bend the strap and then pin or screw the straps into the adobe or use screws or what ever, some thing to hold the box in place, then mix up some sand and mortar cement, 3 sand to one cement mortar, or pre mixed) and plaster around it, if you need to do in layers (rough up the under coats so that the top layers have something to grip to, if you need to put some chicken wire around to support the surface, (like is in the stucco in the wall already), and work it up to level, if and then paint, and put the receptacle back in the box and a cover on the box, If that box pulls out it will have to take the entire patch with it, and if you have dug out behind the existing stucco a little so it will key in behind it , it would have to take out a section of the wall.

(I don't think you would really even need the straps but it would make it easier to hold in place and help secure it and key it in the mortar)

(NO I have never worked with adobe before, I have done a lot with stucco and mortar and block and so forth), I don't see why it would not work with adobe, since it is basically a mud block that is usuly stuccoed for a wall finish and to protect the dirt wall behind,

If I was doing the job this is how I would proceed, or in similar fashion, with out being there there may be some changes by space needs or practically but in general I would figure some way to support the box and hold it, who knows may be even some thing temporally attached to the cabinet, and then mud it in,

tape over the box to keep mud out of it,

 

[Bob NH]

" . . . sand and mortar cement, 3 sand to one cement mortar, or pre mixed) and plaster around it, "

I like to use plaster of paris for repairs like this. It sets up hard in a few minutes (sometimes too few minutes). You can usually put some wet plaster of paris in the hole and push in whatever you are installing, and hold it while it sets up.

 

[Verdeboy]

Surprise! Surprise!

You know what they say about assuming: It makes an a$$ out of u and me. I had assumed that the only wires leading into that box came from inside the wall. I was wrong. It's actually part of a larger circuit, so capping it off is not an option.

The homeowner wants to lose that cabinet, so I'm thinking of removing all the wires from that outlet, getting rid of the cabinet, re-routing the flex conduit and anchoring it to the wall, rewiring that same outlet in that same box, patching the wall, and mounting the box onto that patch (somehow).

Sound kosher?

 

[JWelectric]

Click here to see the tool that you need to use on this job.
This tool will help to remove the old circuit without very much effort and make the reinstallation easier.

 

[sbrn33]

Please don't make this harder than it should be.
Follow the MC cable back to the point where somebody scabbed this in and remove the flex, box and all. If there is not a need for the receptacle just get rid of it.
It probably runs to one of the outlets around it, find that box take the wires out and call it good.
Scott

 

[Old Dog]

Putting plug on a GFI...

Only receptacles in a kitchen that need protecting with GFCI are those over the countertop...

Your absolutely right.
The only reason I mentioned doing it is because it has been my experience that homeowners/renters will run cheap electric chords to the kitchen area if there is not enough plugs or the plugs aren't in a convenient spot.That plug looks close to the cabinets,would most likely get some type of appliance plugged into it.
I guess I just worry about these things when I do repairs.(especially in houses where previous work has been done but not inspected...