pumptec problem

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by Timbuktu, May 21, 2013.

  1. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,799
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    To me, that rotary switche is used in an auto reset function if the unit trips on overload, to allow th emotor to cool for x amount of minutes, currently set (hard to see in photo) at 2,=45 minutes.Auto reset is not necesarily a good thing, especially if there is a constant problem, which there seems to be. The corrosion may be as you said from mineral deposits from the water, or as Don says, from leaked caps.
  2. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    I found the reference post under the topic"I found a used Pumptec..." heres the reference:
    Originally Posted by Timbuktu
    While the pump was running I could hear off and on the caps making a crackling type noise,oh maybe 3 or 4 times at the beginning of the pump runing. Nothing visible though. Whats that tell you?
    "Crakling" could be the start relay points. Just as likely to be the problem as the caps themselves. Will it stay running with the 2 HP box?

    And yeah, nothing else matter until you fix that bad connection!! (added I fixed that after this post)


    Dunno if the caps are good or not anymore. i recall one time during last week deal that I mentioned i heard a crackling noise coming from that area when it was pumping water,and i forget without reviewing the post what the members said it could be.
    Last edited: May 28, 2013
  3. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    yes,thanks.

  4. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    What is a resettable protector and wheres it located?

  5. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,799
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    do you have this info already?


    http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/M1311_60_Hz_AIM_Catalog.pdf
    http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/225468101 R.5 Pumptec Manual 7-12 WEB.pdf

    I think if you do not, you should review thes 2 documents, as they have TONS of info, some of which **may** be of great value to you.

    Google is your friend. bing wants to be your best friend. I have to try Bing next time
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  6. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    tHE WELL MAN WAS OUT AND RETURNED WITH A VERDICT ! AND COSTS

    ITS THE PUMP !
    Ok the well man was out. He said the pump is drawing 45 amps. He unboxed a new control box just to be sure and it tripped off . With that he says its the pump .

    Here's the list As i recall they were all goulds.
    My current bad pump is a gould 10LS15 15 OR 16 GPM 1,5 HP
    here are my choices:
    1- 5gpm 1/2hp for $988+ control box labor and installation $2025
    2- 7gpm 1/2 hp $740 thought it could become overworked?
    3- 7gpm 3/4 hp for $ 906 + control box ,labor and installation $800
    4- 5 gpm 1/2hp & 110 volt Thought it may not be able to hOld siphon?? CONTROL BOX AND PULL PUMP $1643

    Warranty on product is 5yr and 1st year installation $800 no cost. Great1 I know it should last a year at least
    IT WAS HARD TO DECIDE. First I changed my mind back and forth numerous times. the big weinner is #5 i started with themost expensive and went through each one and said " for once Ill get the cheap one' Will I be sorry?

    heres my well:
    410 deep
    motor at 298 ft
    static depth 140

    Dont know the significance of those stats,but you probably will.

    What do you think about the choices i WAS GIVEN
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  7. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    Pump died & list of replacements

    5.30 PUMP W/ 45 amps & List of pump choices: Well man was out. He said the pump is drawing 45 amps. He unboxed a new control box just to be sure and it tripped off . With that he says its the pump .

    Here's the list As i recall they were all goulds.
    My current bad pump is a gould 10LS15
    here are my choices:
    1- 5gpm 1/2hp for $988+ control box labor and installation $2025
    2- 7gpm 1/2 hp $740 thought it could become overworked?
    3- 7gpm 3/4 hp for $ 906 + control box ,labor and installation $800
    i FORGOT TO ASK THIS MAKE
    4- 5 gpm 1/2hp & 110 volt Thought it may not be able to hOld siphon?? price includes CONTROL BOX AND LABOR $1643

    Warranty on product is 5yr and 1st year installation $800 no cost. Great1 I know it should last a year at least
    IT WAS HARD TO DECIDE. First I changed my mind back and forth numerous times. the big weinner is #5 i started with themost expensive and went through each one and said " for once Ill get the cheap one' Will I be sorry?

    heres my well:
    410 deep
    motor at 298 ft
    static depth 140

    Dont know the significance of those stats,but you probably will.

    What do you think about the choices and my pick # 5 ? Its a crap shoot with my lack of knowledge.
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
  8. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

    Messages:
    4,516
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    I would go with a 240 VAC pump, To minimize voltage drop.

    The 3/4 looks like it may be the way to go, from the choices you listed.

    Did you get any Model numbers ?

    Would they be replacing the wire to the pump also ?

    Are these 45 amps 120 Volt or 240 Volt AC or DC ?

    LOL

    Good Luck.
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
  9. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    The pump I ordered yesterday and some specs

    I had no time to wait for further suggestions from this forum in choosing a pump and had to commit to one yesterday so they are putting in the pump now. Its a Gould 1/2 hp 230volt 5 gpm. Dont know the model # now. The decision was to this size pump since i have 2200 gal storage tank it supplies.
    My well is a low producer. It varies from 1/2 to 1 gpm. the well will produce about 1450 gal per day and thats more than I use.
    They are adding a safety in the control box so we can be certain the pump will be able to maintain suction. What that means isnt terribly clear to me,but yall should know.

    Depth 410 ft,pump at 298 ft 140 ft static level
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
  10. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,586
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    That size pump should work fine. That pumptec IS a "control to be able to maintain suction", but I think a Cycle Sensor works better.
  11. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

    Messages:
    4,516
    Location:
    Houston, TX

    Maybe they are installing one of these;

    http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html


    It can be added later if need be.
  12. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    The new Gould stats & the mistake wiring up to the jet

    The well man accidentally wired the jet pump to 220 and when it kicked on it was grinding loud and only ran 20 sec or so( Its suppose to rum 3.5 minutes. He did this a half dozen times trying to figure why it was acting that way. I told him it ran fine before the work was started. of course hes thinkin "Oh sure it was" he said "Did you ever let the jet suck air running the tank water too low? I told him the jet wont run when the water level get somewhere just above the water pickup in the tank. So no.
    He proceeded to connect 110 to the jet instead and it worked fine...he said.
    So my question now is " damage?..I'm thinking it took some life out of it?
    Here is the pump stats:
    Gould
    5sbo5
    412cl
    1/2 hp 1/60/230
    3w 12 stg 4" sub

    So whats the good and or bad if any?
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
  13. tvl

    tvl Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    South Carolina
    Timbuktu,

    I have been following this post with interest .................. but I am now confused:

    Above you stated the well man attempted to connect 220 volts to the new pump and it made a grinding noise. He then connected 110 volts and it ran fine.

    In your stats you list the pump as a 1/2 HP, single phase, 60 hertz AND 220 volts. If this is the case, the pump should be running on 220 volts?????
  14. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    accidentally wired the jet pump to 220 (my original quote above)

    When he installed the well pump and was connecting the jet pump(house pressure).he connected the 220 to it instead of the 110.
    For some reason he ASSUMED the jet was 220 when it was 110.
    And this guy has been working years on pumps daily.
    i guess we can all do dumb things all the time,but with experience in electricity,I would think that would be one of the main checks you do before hooking them up.
    The other thing is he asks ME to turn the main power on or off when he started working on it. i wouldnt trust anyone else in the beginning that the correct one was being turned off. i assume he checked it with a meter befor touching it? I doubt it.
    Thats how you stay alive and not frying electrical equipment. You double check it YOUrSELF.

    Its now 0900 the next day and its working fine so far.
    Its got a different box on it now. Ill get into that on a later post. I was busy doing other unrelated stufff while he worked on the pumpand I forgot to ask him how the replacement control box (only one) works and if i can make adjustments etc.
    Ill post later.
    Last edited: May 31, 2013
  15. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,799
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I think you better get him to either give you aan extended warranty in writing to cover that pump motor and labor or have him put another in right now. I would prefer the latter if it were me. Starting and running it at double rated voltage multiple times certainly did it no GOOD. Ask him; its your money!
  16. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

    Messages:
    4,516
    Location:
    Houston, TX

    Some People just should not be playing with electricity.

    That guy must have a brown ring around his neck.

    Did you have to help him to get his head out of his ass ?


    Sounds like you have water.


    Enjoy.
  17. BobL43

    BobL43 DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,799
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Don, you really have a way with words;)
  18. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    Finding the best thing to propose to the well company for the possible jet damage

    thanks BobL

    DonLs recommendation is an exellent idea,but before I act on this, Id like to open this up to other suggestions.
    Some variations of DonL's idea if there are any.
    Here's my reasoning:
    The well used up all my cash and credit available to me. With that ,maybe i should ask for a refund in cash for the amount of a prorated value of the jet pump plus labor charges to install a new one?
    Im mean thats just one possibility,and with input from members maybe I can get more options to consider,especially if he rejects the offer I use ,that Donl suggested.


  19. Timbuktu

    Timbuktu New Member

    Messages:
    65
    Location:
    PalmSprings SCal
    i decided to look at the jet pump and its a Gould J55 1/2hp 115/230
    Just for clarification:
    Doesnt this mean its either a 115 or a 230?. Why would a 220 over heat and cause the jet to grind?
    i suppose unit will run either,but first the installer mus configure the wiring to get on or the other and that is what he didnt do?
  20. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,321
    Location:
    New England
    WHen a pump is labeled that way, you can adjust the wiring to run it at either 115 or 230 - depending on the pump, it is done by either flipping a switch, moving jumpers, or connecting the power leads properly. So, to figure out what it is actually configured to run on would require looking at it and the associated wiring. Running it improperly configured will ruin it, maybe quickly. Also, keep in mind that if configured for 115vac rather than 230vac, you'd need larger supply wires and a bigger CB.
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