Pipe Repair on Mom's house

[Kevin Murphy]

I was just visiting Mom and while doing some stuff in the back yard I saw some water coming from here. There seems to be a pin hole or crack in the PVC threads on the right side of the brass shut off valve. It appears that this is a PVC male threaded 3/4 adapter, a small piece of 3/4" pipe, and a 90 degree PVC elbow connecting to the metal pip going into the house. It seems I am very lucky that this is on the output side of the main water shutoff valve for the house.

Back in the day I would try to tackle this on the spot, but as I've gotten older I've learned. Can someone tell me the best way to replace the broken threaded piece, and what/all tools and supplies I would need. And also what to expect a plumber would charge for this repair? Thank you!

 

[WorthFlorida]

Probably the best place to cut is above or below the coupler on the pipe coming out of the ground. At the leak area use a pair of channel locks to hold the female coupler and turn the valve if possible. It doesn't look like there is enough space between the valve and wall. During installation the coupler was threaded on first, then glued to the elbow.

If there is no room to turn the valve it may be easier to cut off the valve stem. It looks like working on the elbow side to the wall may not be possible without doing some damage. Do replace everything with Schedule 40 PVC pipe with a brass ball valve for the main cutoff. You will need a brass nipple to thread into the old PVC coupler. Use tape, not pipe dope. Hopefully the old threaded coupler is good. When done any exposed PVC put a coat of paint on the PVC to protect it from UV light from the sun.

At or near the street there will be the water meter. Each side of the meter has a shut off valve. Usually on the house side is the easiest to close but it can be tight and sometimes hard to turn if it hasn't been done in a long time. You might have to dig the entire meter box out to get leverage. I usually use channel locks to turn the valve or place a pair of pliers on the valve and use the channel lock on the pliers to turn the valve.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

What I do not see is a expansion relief valve. My home in Orange County, FL built in 2007 has one and a plumber installed on at the water heater at my son's home built in 1977. They are easy to add. You just need a 3/4 PVC tee with a thread at the middle tee. If there isn't one near the water heater, do add one. Is it good insurance. They are adjustable but usually set to about 125 PSI.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3...T-Expansion-Relief-Valve-LF530C-3-4/203473942

 

[Jeff H Young]

I would cut the FIP x slip 90 off and cut the pipe off a a bit further left than the male adapter on left side of the gate valve.
starting at house parts needed : 3/4 brass threaded 90 , 3/4 brass shoulder nipple, 3/4 threaded ball valve, 3/4 PVC male adapter , 3/4 PVC coupling, glue, primer, thread tape. 200 to 300 bucks my guess you would pay .
from the info supplied I see no reason to expect a relief valve at this location.