Pentair WS48 5600 sxt10 water pressure drop after 2yrs

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Dave E

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2 year old water softener with drop in house water pressure. It started a couple months ago, bypassed water softener and water pressure is fine. I took off the top to resin tank and the filter is clean that is attached to top of control unit. Any ideas to try? I called and they told me the resin is bad already. I find this really hard to believe since I am on city water with extremely low chlorine.​

System specs below.

System Features​

  • Fleck 5600SXT Digital Metered Control
  • 10" x 54" Resin Tank
  • 14" Brine Tank
  • 1.5 Cubic Feet 10% Crosslink Resin
  • Bypass with 1" Male Connections
  • Max 48,000 grain capacity
  • Injector 1
  • drain flow 2.4gph
 

WorthFlorida

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See page 20 of the manual. First thing is perform a regen with an Iron (Out) remover. May take two regens and a run the bathtub cold water after each regen to flush the system.

 

Dave E

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I ran a regen yesterday, then later last night I ran another regen with Iron (out), this morning same low pressure water. Are you saying I need to run Iron out twice? The only thing I didn't do is run bathtub cold water after regen. The house is on city water and is only 6 years old.

Another interesting point, about 2 months ago I clean a salt bridge off the bottom of the salt tank. Rinsed the bottom, but not any hoses. Could a brine hose cause house water pressure issue?
 
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Bannerman

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The significant loss of flow through a softener, is commonly caused by damaged resin that requires replacement.

Many Municipal water suppliers have been adopting the use of Chloramine (chlorine + amonia) as a disinfectant, favoring it over plain chlorine. While constant chlorine exposure will damage any resin over time, damage from Chloramine will be more rapid.

If your water supplier is only using chlorine, although you stated the softener current contains 10% cross-linked resin, I suspect it is not 10%, and likely not even 8% CL (standard resin), particularly if the softener was obtained from an online dealer.

You may want to consider installing a backwashing carbon filtration system to remove the chlorine/chloramine prior to the softener. While common Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) will rapidly remove plain chlorine, Catalytic Carbon should be chosen to more effective to remove chloramines.

The recommended flow rate for either type of carbon to effectively remove chlorine, chloramine and other contaminants including the byproducts of disinfection is between 1 and 3 GPM per cubic foot of carbon media. A flow range is specified as some contaminants such as chloramines, are more stubborn to remove, thereby requiring longer contact time with the carbon to result in the most thorough removal, compared to less stubborn contaminants.
 

Dave E

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@Bannerman Thanks for taking the time to provide the level of detail above, much appreciated! I must have really got a bad batch online or clogged the lower resin screen. I tested my inlet water with my pool kit and the hardness is about 200ppm and clorine was not even registering on the drop test. I will look to get some quality resin and replace the lower screen with higher quality. I might clean out the head once I have it off to make sure injector, valve and others are not clogged. I do not have a segment filter. I am hoping this isn't just a case of city water contamination clogging something and not the resin.
 

Dave E

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Since this all started after I cleaned the brine tank from a salt bridge at bottom, I thaught before I change 2yr old resin I would explore. Last night I took the brine hose off the controller and used my air compressor to blow toward the salt tank, then also blew it in the controller head at the brine intake. I then took off the lower plate and checked the screen, then blew air into injector area. Put everything back together and ran a regen. Pressure worked great all day for three showers, dishwasher, and multiple wash machine cycles. Then tonight during shower lost all pressure again.....
 
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Dave E

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After the confusing data above, I decided to pull the control valve and check to see if there were any obstructions. I noticed the tube from the resin tank was offset, so I pulled the control unit off. Can anyone confirm that I have a defective head? It looks like the hole at the bottom is offset with plastic and the tube does not fit restricting water flow. See attached pictures.
 

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Dave E

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I confirmed that the pictures above are the way the control head is made, thus 3/4 opening versus 1" resin pipe.... I changed the resin in the tank and the flow is back to normal.
 
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