PCV transition

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by Rancher, Dec 31, 2007.

  1. Rancher

    Rancher Guest

    What is the best way to transition from PVC to either a brass gate valve i.e. male PVC to female brass, or would it be better to use a brass/gal steel nipple and go from female PVC with SS hose clamps to the male brass/gal steel.

    Rancher
  2. markts30

    markts30 Commercial Plumber

    Messages:
    630
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Don't think male metal into female plastic is legal in any code...
    That being said, I prefer to use half of a SCH80 PVC nipple into the female brass valve body then glue the PVC into a coupling and then to the pipe...
    The SCH80 nipples do not break as easily as the MIP fittings and other male plastic adapters I have used...
    If the connection has to be disassembled frequently you can use a union (or banded coupling if the application is not a high pressure one)...
  3. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    NEVER use plastic FIP adapters for metal MIP.
    However, male plastic into metal is fine.
  4. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    That makes sense, and I can also see the advantage of using half of a nipple like Mark mentioned. However, I recently discovered that some of the CPVC fittings (such as slip x thread male adapters) at the local box store are labelled "cold water only". Do you know what that is about? It looks to me like that is just some kind of ploy for selling the more-expensive plastic/brass hybrid version.
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,315
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    cold only

    Hot water will create massive expansion/contraction issues and then the all plastic adapter will leak at the threads.
  6. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,453
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Is this PVC outside the house?
  7. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    Trust me, you don't want to use those things on potable (cold also).
    The brass/CPVC are expensive, but the plastic will fail, saw it happen...not gonna happen to me.
    The threads are so mallable thats it's difficult to know when they're over-tightened/stripped.
  8. Rancher

    Rancher Guest

    Yes PVC is outside, it's the transition to the water line to the inside, which is now going to be PEX due to the copper failing. I'm going to use a brass gate valve this time due to bad experience with the plastic handles on the PVC ball valves breaking off (3' underground...).

    Rancher
  9. Rancher

    Rancher Guest

    So I guess the consensus is, Schedule 80 PVC (the Gray stuff, right?) into the brass, and cut off the other threaded end and couple to Schedule 40 PVC (the white stuff) using a coupling.

    Did i get this right?

    Rancher
  10. GrumpyPlumber

    GrumpyPlumber Licensed Grump

    Messages:
    1,404
    Location:
    Licensed Grump
    Sounds good, unless you can find a brass X CPVC adapter at your local supply..brass threads are best.
Similar Threads: transition
Forum Title Date
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & PVC transition to Cast Iron May 31, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Abs-PVC Transition Cement for just Abs by mistake May 6, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & transitioning from galvanized to copper Dec 16, 2013
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & vertical-to-horizontal transition: long bend only or or Y plus 45 with cleanout? Jun 14, 2013
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Best Transition Oct 29, 2012

Share This Page