Nice Little Old Grandmother Needs Help Programming ClackWS1

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Simone

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Well water -submersible pump - Central Florida area
TDS=131
Hardness=8 grains
pH=7
Fe=1.2 ppm
Also 'some' sulfur
4 people in house, 3 baths

Water is not too bad and have been getting by on bottled drinking water. However, at times, plugs of blackish-dark dark purple water flushes out from either hot or cold lines. (House had Culligan system but had it pulled out years ago and think this might be old potassium permanganate caught in the lines??) Just bought new washer and steam dryer so am very concerned that this material might gunk up the machine/laundry.

My son gave me his UNused Clack WS1 water softener that he purchased on line a few years ago. Unfortunately don't seem to have all the instructions and am trying to piece together information. The system has been plumbed and am now in the programming phase.

Question #1 Is there an overall sequential step-by-step set of instructions that can take me from the plumbing stage through all the programming sequences? I understand how to enter in choices, but do not know how to decide which choice to choose. For ex; whether to post or pre fill? Single or double backwash with normal or longer settings?

Q#2 – One of the steps says to ‘enter your P number’ which I assume is “Program Code†but it then refers you to tables in the manual that only relate to the length of the cycles when the valve is set up as a softener. Can’t find anything that might give me a P number. What is this?

Q#3 – Re Filter Set up –
Fill volume: how do I determine if the filter requires a regenerant or not and if so, how do I determine the set value?

Or, too many questions and should I just call my friendly well guy or plumber and have them finish the programming?

Appreciate any suggestions or explanations.
 

Mikey

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Here's a pretty good document:

http://www.qualitywaterforless.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/clack/WS1INS.pdf

If you Google "Programming ClackWS1" there are a lot of hits, including YouTube videos that might help. I think you're smart to invest in a good softening system; I hate to think how that fancy steam washer would look and work after a few months on your raw water. You may need more than just the softener, with the relatively high iron content and "some" sulfur (wouldn't hurt to get a complete water analysis), but I'll let the pro's comment further.
 

Gary Slusser

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Simone, you need to find the model number on your resin tank. It is usually on a clear label somewhere on the tank, usually toward the bottom. It will be numbers like 1054 and that will tell us the cuft size (1.5 in this example) of the softener. That is needed to determine the P number.

The link Mikey gave you has the person set the capacity and salt dose for the poorest salt efficiency (2000 grains/lb) for their size softener. Click the link in my signature and learn how to set a much more efficient capacity and salt dose. That also determines the P number.

With the size of the tank I can give you specific programing data, P number and instructions if you PM me.

If that purple water is from potassium permanganate, that is very dangerous and the water should not be used.
 

Tom Sawyer

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I'd be a bit concerned over the purple/ black water. If the old culligan system was removed some time ago and you have been using the plumbing, there shouldn't be anything "left" in the pipes. You might want to get a plumber in to see what's going on there.
 

Mialynette2003

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I have a manual that shows all the P codes as well as secondary programing. I'ld be more than happy to share. Just send me a email. Too many pages to post here.
 
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