Need help replacing my water system

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Guy48065

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Couple years ago I bought a cottage that has a shallow well. The well is outside, the pump is inside. In February my heat malfunctioned and my pump and copper piping need to be replaced.
I've done many small projects over the years but my problem often is visualizing what I SHOULD have when it's complete. Does anyone have a nice picture of a suitable configuration to replace this grubby little mess? I'm only seeking help with this part of the install.



Since these threads tend to generate lots of questions I'll provide the details up front:
I'm planning a PEX system from as close to the pump/tank as possible in 3/4" PEX mains over to the crawl space (accessible from the basement) where there will be hot & cold manifolds for the 1/2" runs to all the fixtures. Kitchen, one bath and a (future) laundry. This is the planned layout:



I have a small horizontal tank already and a Goulds J5SH is on order.
The "large end" of the cottage has a basement, the center is over a crawl and the near end is on a slab.

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WorthFlorida

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Not necessarily this brand of pump but the shallow well pump with a tank in this configuration, all as one unit and perfect for small cottages and campsites. The 1/2 hp with 8.5 gallon would be a good choice. https://www.waynepumps.com/product-selector/well-pumps

The electric is way out and nowhere does it look safe. The romex wire to a plug is a no no and the outlet would need to be dedicated. It looks like a wall light switch was used to switch the pump off. No way would this switch can handle an inductive load over the long run. It most likely gets quite warm when the pump is running. A new system needs to be direct wired with a cutoff switch near the pump. The manufacture of the motor will recommend circuit size and wire size. It also needs a grounded, I see none. Poor electrical connection and no grounding will shorten the life of the motor. Even though the current system lasted a long time, it's dangerous.
 

Valveman

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I would recommend using a Pside-Kick kit for that pump so the small tank is not a problem. 8.5 gallon pressure tanks only hold about 2 gallons of water, which can make the pump cycle on and off a lot. Cycling is bad for the pump and doesn't supply the strong pressure you want in the house.
 
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Guy48065

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Not necessarily this brand of pump but the shallow well pump with a tank in this configuration, all as one unit and perfect for small cottages and campsites. The 1/2 hp with 8.5 gallon would be a good choice. https://www.waynepumps.com/product-selector/well-pumps

The electric is way out and nowhere does it look safe. The romex wire to a plug is a no no and the outlet would need to be dedicated. It looks like a wall light switch was used to switch the pump off. No way would this switch can handle an inductive load over the long run. It most likely gets quite warm when the pump is running. A new system needs to be direct wired with a cutoff switch near the pump. The manufacture of the motor will recommend circuit size and wire size. It also needs a grounded, I see none. Poor electrical connection and no grounding will shorten the life of the motor. Even though the current system lasted a long time, it's dangerous.
As I said it's all going to be replaced (except that nice big gauge--IF the freeze didn't screw up its accuracy).
Your point about the switch is well taken--that duplex job probably isn't motor rated. I'll swap out the box for a 4" and use separate components.
 

Guy48065

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Odd that the internet has millions of product pictures just like valveman posted but system pictures are ultra-rare. Unless it's a high-zoot hydronic system with miles of colorful tubing and thousands spent on manifolds and controls.
 

Reach4

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I don't know what is basement or what your decor desires are, but since your WH is electric, it would be better if you could move that closer to the hot manifold for faster hot.

You could consider running the hot to the lavatory with 3/8 pex for faster hot at that faucet. Some people like to put in hot water recirculation systems to allow not having to run water down the drain to get warm water. I doubt that is what you would want to do for a "cottage" but faster hot by relocating the WH and using the smaller PEX to the lav is pretty much free.

Why did you figure a small pressure tank was in order? Usually you would like to have the pump run at least a minute each time. The drawdown on a tank is about 25 to 30% of nominal size depending on the pressure setting of your switch. Thus a 22 gallon tank would give about 5 gallons of drawdown. If the pump pumped 5 GPM, that would be adequate. The Cycle stop valve offers a way to get a longer run time with a smaller tank.
 
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