Laundry Remodel - Dry Fit - Help?!

Discussion in 'Remodel Forum & Blog' started by bmb2m9, Feb 26, 2010.

  1. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Hey guys, I just dry fit my plumbing drains for our laundry room remodel. If you could check the attached picture of my work it would be greatly appreciated. The setup is going to be washer, dryer, sink, from left to right. The only snag (well not the only one..but) I ran into was having to shift the drain vent over to dodge the dryer vent (since it was already cut into the brick). Disregard the hot and cold supply lines, they are being moved.

    It is just a dry fit so I know the pitch and plumb in the picture is not perfect. Thanks for any help and advice you can give, you all have always been helpful.

    Attached Files:

  2. krow

    krow Plumber

    Messages:
    906
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Where the 2 vents attach together is way to low. Attach the y vent at 42" off the floor and your good to go
  3. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    I'm not sure how you plan on finishing the wall but the foamboard must be covered by a minimum of 1/2" drywall. You cannot leave extruded foam exposed because it is a fire/smoke hazard.

    That being said, your DVW will need to be shifted outward from the present wall. Given the need for plumbing and electrical installation, a full frame wall is recommended here.
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2010
  4. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    I am planning on framing a full 2x4 wall and drywalling. I just wanted to get my pipe dry fit right first. Thanks for the help.
  5. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    What do you think the best way to do that is? I need to dodge the dryer vent which is "inconveniently" located directly above vent/main drain. Should I loop the vents around the dryer vent (effectively encircling it) or swing them to the left (possibly moving my combo further left toward the washing machine trap)?

    Also, just curious, why does the y vent need to be attached at least 42" off of the floor?

    Thanks for the help!
  6. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Would this work? Use your imagination and pretend that there is pipe between the fittings I taped up.

    Thanks for any help in advance.

    Attached Files:

  7. krow

    krow Plumber

    Messages:
    906
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    If one side backs up, you don't want the water to go down the other side of the vent. You will never know it is plugged

    Yours will work too

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 26, 2010
  8. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Superb! Thanks for your help krow!
  9. nukeman

    nukeman Nuclear Engineer

    Messages:
    711
    Location:
    VA
    You could replace that san tee with a long sweep elbow and take the vent off before the elbow. Run the vent up on the other side of the dryer vent and then tie it back in at 42" or so.
  10. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,360
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    Dry fitting PVC will give you problems. PVC is interference fit which means it does not go together without solvent. If you have forced pipe into the fittings, it will be very difficult to remove, even as tight as it is, the pipe will be about 1/4" from bottoming out in the fitting. This means your pipe will be about 1/4" short for every joint made. Start at one end and work from there, measure, cut, and assemble as you go.
  11. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,835
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Most plumbers would replace your combo to the washer with a coupling, replace the upper "Y" with a 45, and eliminate the "vent" for the washer drain which is not needed and is redundant, and leave everything else just the way you have it.
  12. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Well I did this project yesterday. After I was done I realized that I should have moved the sink branch up higher, it is really way too low (I will be raising the floor to make it level with the rest of the house). Should I do this by adding another vertical drop before the drain, then I assume I would have to retie a vent into the main drain?

    I didn't leave enough pipe around the fittings to cut it out and move it higher.

    HJ, I was under the impression that I had to have a secondary vent for the washer since it was below the sink in the stack?

    Yes , I realize I am probably creating a cluster and kind of screwed up. I intentionally made the washer trap as low as possible so that I am able to use a dryer box for the dryer. Check out the attached picture.

    Keep in mind, that as long as it works well and is up to code, I don't care if it looks hodge-podge to a master plumber.

    The wall is going to be furred out a full 2x6, so I will have plenty of room.

    Thanks for everyone's help!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 28, 2010
  13. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Like this?! I assume you have to vent at every vertical drop after the p-trap.

    Attached Files:

  14. krow

    krow Plumber

    Messages:
    906
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Yes, that will work too. It will be a little bit busy and some venting will be redundant, but it beats ripping it all out again
  15. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Sweet, thanks! What is the standard height for a sink stub-in/rough-in? About 24 inches off of the subfloor?!

    Yes, it will be very busy...
  16. krow

    krow Plumber

    Messages:
    906
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Laundry sink with or without cabinet ~ 14"-16" from floor to centre in my neck of the woods
  17. bmb2m9

    bmb2m9 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Correct PVC Cement?!

    Hey guys,

    I used purple Oatey PVC primer when applying PVC cement to my drain pipes. I now found out the cement I used may have not been the best for PVC Drains.

    I used Oatey All-Purpose Cement and some Carlon PVC Cement (typically used with conduit). I figured it would not matter considering they are both for PVC, everything was primed and clean, I applied it liberally, and all joints are very stout.

    Please tell me that I don't need to rip out my work because this will cause problems later?! I know that I should probably have used Oatey PVC Cement (PVC Specific) only with purple primer.

    I checked the ingredients and there is very little variation between the different types of cement.

    Thanks for any advice and sorry to be such a noob.
  18. krow

    krow Plumber

    Messages:
    906
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    In all likelyhood, it probably will not make a big difference, but then again, I have never tried that
  19. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,835
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    You have it backwards. If the sink were below the washer, the bornelli effect could cause a siphon on the sink drain, so IT would need the secondary "revent". With the washer on the bottom there is no such action so the vent is not needed.
  20. bpetey

    bpetey Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    CA
    Put the pipe down. This is a thread about pvc glue. For your post, you can use latex over oil if you clean the surface with TSP or sand first. A coat of primer and latex will be ok to top it off.
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