Kentucky DWV testing question

[NB1995]

Hello - I need advice on how to test the DWV system I installed for my basement remodel. I added a drain for a wet bar that I tied into an existing drain stack that the builders roughed in for the basement bathroom. I tied in below the stub out for the bathroom sink in the attached picture. I’m not sure how I can plug the drain where I tied in as there’s no room below the sanitary tee I installed to add a test tee. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[John Gayewski]

Why do you need to test it?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[NB1995]

Why do you need to test it?

For rough in inspection

 

[Jeff H Young]

Im assuming the ground work was tested and now the piping above slab for top out test . .
one easy way is cut the pipe just above slab and put a jim cap put a fill on the lav stub after test drain back down through lav stub then shove a small hose down lav stuop all the way to the jim cap and shop vac out the water.
then remove jim cap and re assemble with a shielded mechanical coupling

 

[NB1995]

Im assuming the ground work was tested and now the piping above slab for top out test . .
one easy way is cut the pipe just above slab and put a jim cap put a fill on the lav stub after test drain back down through lav stub then shove a small hose down lav stuop all the way to the jim cap and shop vac out the water.
then remove jim cap and re assemble with a shielded mechanical coupling

Thanks! Yep, ground work was already tested. This makes sense and was what I was thinking would be the easiest option.

 

[John Gayewski]

We don't do a lot of testing here. Sometimes we test underground. Almost never above ground as a leak will show itself pretty fast and the effort most times isn't worth it.

Looks like you got it figured out. Kind of silly to cut a perfectly good pipe just to test and then fix it with a connection that can't be tested afterwards.

I guess if someone plans on testing the whole system they should know about it ahead of time and plan on some inflatable plugs.

But if your situation calls for cutting and testing then I'd definitely do that.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Easy option at this point I dont like cutting the pipe but gotta do what ya gotta do ! , A test tee aka clean out tee would have been nice too.
In the areas Ive worked its pretty common to expect an inspector to want a test they can be kinda jerks or not.
exposed over a basement is one thing but 2 story houses or even single story on slab if its new we fill them up out the roof vents

 

[John Gayewski]

Our inspector says that if it leaks you guys will be back to fix it so it doesn't matter to him.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

If we were adding that sink drain the way you did, we would install a Test Tee on the horizontal after the 45. It gets a special "clean seal" threaded balloon inserted that blocks the flow. Upstream is filled to 10ft (or to the ceiling) to create about 5psi for the test. After inspection, we let the pressure out, the Clean Seal plug allows water down the drain without spilling and is removed once the water is done draining. Insert a threaded plug and done.

 

[Jeff H Young]

If we were adding that sink drain the way you did, we would install a Test Tee on the horizontal after the 45. It gets a special "clean seal" threaded balloon inserted that blocks the flow. Upstream is filled to 10ft (or to the ceiling) to create about 5psi for the test. After inspection, we let the pressure out, the Clean Seal plug allows water down the drain without spilling and is removed once the water is done draining. Insert a threaded plug and done.

Yea but then you get that jerk inspector thats running around up there and he fails it because the 2 inch santee and street 45 wasent tested . Ive had issues like this before sometimes just a warning .
But then Ive had ones that say like John brought up saying if it leaks it wont be him coming back to do the repair