Good ideas, Superplum, but no. It was in a shed in the original box for the last 2 years, all components still shrink-wrapped. And when I installed it, I never put it in bypass (but I WILL go check now to make sure; however, if it WERE in bypass, then my water would not taste and feel as soft as it does now). No pressure tank, I am on community water that comes from three huge wells, then pumped to the neighborhood. Untreated well water. And the cartridge filter between the source and my softener is dirty (as in looks "dusty" with silt), but no large particles at all. (Renter cranked it down TIGHT while I was gone, and I have broken two wrenches trying to get it off and replace the cartridge... gotta get this done soon!)
A little more info on the system, cuz I have another issue I can't figure out...
Incoming from community water is 3/4" copper. Then...
gate valve
Watts PRV
Check valve
Pressure gauge
ball valve
cartridge sediment filter
ball valve
bypass tree going into softener with ball valves
the rest of the house plumbing
When I am in the crawl space, pressure is 58 psi static.
Had my wife turn on the tub, and it drops to 52, then 44, then 38 (remains here as flow continues) in about 4 seconds. This corresponds to the pressure drop we "see" at the tub.
5-6 seconds after opening the tap, the crud (and orange water) hits the tub for about 3-6 seconds, then runs clear.
Turn off the tub, and it takes about 10 seconds for pressure to return to 58 psi.
Now here's what I can't figure out... if I turn off the ball valve feeding the cartridge filter, pressure increases from 58 to 74 psi in about 4 seconds.
Open the valve, and it DROPS instantly to 58 psi. This is very repeatable.... and leads me to think I have a leak somewhere. Looked all over every pipe that I can see, and all appears fine. Outside, one freeze-proof faucet is dripping about 1 drop every 90 seconds (hardly a pressure-dropping leak).
So why does the pressure increase/drop 16 psi when I close/open the filter valve?