How to secure black iron at the wall penetration

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by North Jersey, Aug 19, 2010.

  1. North Jersey

    North Jersey New Member

    Messages:
    107
    How should I secure 1" black iron at the wall (rim joist) penetration? Can I use a floor flange? I'll be hooking up to CSST on the inside.
  2. North Jersey

    North Jersey New Member

    Messages:
    107
  3. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

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    7,308
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    I'm not sure I fully understand what you are trying to do. A floor flange such as you have is to anchor a pipe that is being used as a leg to the floor. You could use 2 flanges, and make a clothes rod wall to wall. A floor flange is not used to connect two pieces of pipe together. They really are not plumbing parts.
  4. Jerome2877

    Jerome2877 In the Trades

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    BC
    If its just a wood joist then drill a hole and put the pipe through, use pipe stays to support the pipe on the side of the wall.
  5. North Jersey

    North Jersey New Member

    Messages:
    107
    I sort of suspected as much when I looked at the short length of threads. I have to secure this pipe to the rim (band) joist because I'll have only about 18" of iron at the exterior wall penetration (the building inspector wanted black iron through the wall). The propane company will hook up soft copper to the iron, and I will hook up CSST on the inside. I want to avoid having the iron pull through the wall, shift, or rotate. The band joist is the only place where the propane pipe will pass through lumber.

    I'm not sure I have a perpendicular surface for the pipe stay. What about a split ring hanger like this one?:
    http://www.warwickhanger.com/catalog/pipe-hangers/black-iron-pipe/split-ring-hangers/

    I'm not sure how much friction I'll have between the clamp and the pipe, but I guess I could wrap a piece of hanger tape around the pipe to tighten things up if necessary. What do you think?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 28, 2010
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,817
    Location:
    New England
    The (few) ring hangers I've used, clamp to the pipe quite tight, so nothing additional is required. I supposed you could wrap it with plastic tape if you needed it tighter, but I don't think you'll need to.
  7. psjr56

    psjr56 Member

    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    S. Jersey
    How about a stubout? Getting the right size one you'll probably need to go to a supply house. You also might want to paint the exposed part.

    Attached Files:

  8. Hairyhosebib

    Hairyhosebib New Member

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    Location:
    Arizona
  9. North Jersey

    North Jersey New Member

    Messages:
    107
    Hosebib, I'm not sure any of those would work my application.

    I liked the stub-out idea, but either the guy at the counter at Ferguson's didn't understand what I was looking for or they don't carry them. Tracpipe makes a 1" brass flange with an autoflare fitting. I bought the Tracpipe flange, but I think it's going back, because $38 is just a little too much. I found the same thing elsewhere for $18.99, shipped.
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