Hand Driven Well Newbie

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Stevenb

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I wrote several months ago, and recieved great advice, now I finally have my point, couplings, and cap. I'd like to post a few review questions I missed before:
1) I am on Eastern Shore Maryland, (Wicomico County). I expect sand and sandy loamy soil all the way to 25 feet. I'm supposed to have water anywhere between 10 and 20 feet. We have had slightly more rain than usual. How should I factor that in to my considerations?
2) Here on the forum it was suggested to check for water every 5 feet.
In general I see here it suggests to test with a pitcher pump. A local old timer here suggested to drop a dry string down until it got wet then start testing for amounts with the pitcher pump. Is that advice worthwhile?
3)What should I apply to the couplings and pipe lengths (trflon tape, etc)?
4)In sandy loamy soil is it possible to go too deep (as in 4 or 5 feet too deep)?
5) Do you flush the point only after you've reached water depth, or along the way?

Thanks!
Steven
 

Sammyhydro11

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Steve,
drive the point until you have at least 5' of water over the screen and then test with the pitcher pump. If you have good water,drive it another 5' and test again. The more water you have over that screen, the less of a chance that you will have a problem during drought season,but if you go to far you will get into some material that wont pass water. Use pipe dope on the threads and make sure you have drive couplings. Tighten every joint using 2 pipe wrenches and get them as tight as you can by hand.The hammering action tends to loosen the couplings so After every section turn the whole well until the pipe is snug.

Off to work i go!

Sammy
 

Speedbump

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You should use BIG Wrenches with 2" Pipe extensions if necessary to Butt the pipes together inside the couplings. This takes a lot of stress off the threads. You will know when they butt as they will stop turning abruptly. It won't be easy getting to this point, but it is very important.

Don't use a Sledge Hammer or a Drive Cap. Use a Fence Post Driver or similar.

bob...
 

shorrock

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Drove a well recently like you are talking about. Do not use a sledge. I did on the first one, and thankfully had access to a 2" pipe threader to re-thread the pipe once it was in the ground. Use the wooden mallet plans all over, or the fence post driver.
 

Stevenb

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Oh boy thanks for the advice guys. Especially about avoiding the sledge.
Now to find a fencepost driver. It's almost all chicken farms and open soybean/corn fields.....not a whole lot of strung wire.
it's 1 1/4 pipe....maybe I can make one.

It sounds like I should be able to spot water with a flashlight?

Thanks Again,
Steven
 

Tmbr2

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StevenB, I'm in the same boat as you are, I started driving my point not to long ago and ran into problems with the sledge hammer like I found out on here. You can get a fence post driver from most home improvement stores. I was able to get mine at M E N A R D S. Only problem is, it's not quite heavy enough, needs more weight to make it easier to pound. I live in No. IL and cored a hole through my slab in the basement, and I'm 5 feet down and have just hit water. Now I just have to continue till I have a constant supply for my lawn and garden. Good luck to you. These other guys are a wealth of info as I'm sure you've found out already.
 
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