Fleck 2500 control valve and help with softener maintenance

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by ribs1, Aug 18, 2012.

  1. ribs1

    ribs1 New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    Hello Fellow,
    I still haven't bought a new softener yet because of too many other projects right now.
    I would like to do some maintenance on my existing softener to try and get a few more months out of it.
    I don't really know how to manually regenerate this softener as I can't find a manual for the valve or even figure out what kind of valve I have.
    Here's a picture. I think it is at least 20 years old.
    [​IMG]

    I got some super iron out. Planning to poor some in the brine tank and do a manual regeneration or 2.
    Thanks
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
  2. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    That is a very old day timer Fleck 2500 and it's well over 20 years old.

    It has a brine valve stem or o-ring leak.

    Mix the IO in a gallon of water before pouring it in the salt tank and not into dry salt, get it into the water in the tank.
  3. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
  4. ribs1

    ribs1 New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    Thanks Guys,
    I figured out how to manually regenerate. I poured the iron out solution into the part of the brine tank where the float is. Was that the right thing to do?
    Thanks
  5. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,486
    Location:
    Alaska
    That is where it is to go when adding iron out solution straight into the water of the salt tank.
    The valve is either the Fleck 1500 or 2500, a photo of the valve body would tell as to which one it is, but either way the books for the two are the same.

    Yours have the brine refill and rapid rinse together with the white cam that is on the left of the cam drive motor.
    The timer assembly is of the older style and work able till the motor goes.
    http://www.pentairwatertreatment.com/PentairFiles/Pentair%20Water%20Treatment/Manuals/1500%20Service%20Manual%2015856.pdf
  6. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,227
    Location:
    Maine
    I believe it's a Fleck 2500 and it's all of 20 years old and I suspect closer to 30 but it's a testament to the durability of Fleck equipment. You can still find just about every part needed to rebuild it.
  7. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,486
    Location:
    Alaska
    With it still working and if Fleck was was still doing the oldest working valve .. this might be in the running.

    The valve body and fiber glass tank can be used for many more years.
    Change the resin, rebuild the valve and timer and good to go.
    And there would be less in the landfill.
  8. ribs1

    ribs1 New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    I figured it was an old one. I don't think I will rebuild this thing though for a couple reasons.
    1. I don't know how (although I'm sure I could figure it out, or get someone to do it)
    2. I think my softener is undersized.
    3. I really want a metered valve unit.

    My house was built in 1980. Do you guys think this softener could be original to the house?
  9. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,860
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Unscrew the thumb nut and open the timer. Please be carefull since on the older designs, the live wires were not fully covered like they are on the newer units. Inside the timer, on the two microswitches will be a date sticker. Please let us know how old it is. I am guessing 30+
  10. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,227
    Location:
    Maine
    1980 wouldn't surprise me in the least.
  11. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,486
    Location:
    Alaska
    There is a way of turning that unit into a metered unit.
    What size is the media tank?
    what size is the house?
    number of bathrooms?
    water quality?
    Doing it your self means that you learn your system for the future trouble shooting of any problems later on.

    But if you would like to spend the money for a new one there are any number of places on line and box stores that are more than happy to take your money.
  12. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,860
    Location:
    Ontario California
    It can be converted to a metered valve. New timer/meter assembly, replumb in a mechanical meter, new cover, rebuild the valve, probably should replace the resin while you are at it, and the distributor tube, I would not recommend this path though.

    Personally, you got your moneys worth. Looking at the brine valve cam, and the wiring, this is an early 80's valve, probably original to the house.

    It is time to upgrade to a modern system. Congratulations on the long life of your system! Fleck valves are still made with the same internal designs and materials. The valve body is usually a high quality GE Noryl plastic, and those almost never fail, even after 30 years. The brass bodies are great, but we have a higher failure rate of brass than we do plastic. LOL, higher failure rate= 1 out of 10,000 vs 1 out of 20,000, not really a problem either way.
  13. ribs1

    ribs1 New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    I don't think I will be rebuilding this softener right now. I think it's time for a modern system.
    I might however think about cleaning it up and converting to an iron filter later.
  14. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,486
    Location:
    Alaska
    Modern in what way?
    About the only thing there that is not Modern would be the valve because it is not digital.
    Most companies are only into selling new equipment.

    One finds a Model T that with a little work could be on the road again working.
    Do you pass it to the junk yard ?
    Do you work on it to put it on the road?
  15. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,860
    Location:
    Ontario California
    This is not a model T, it is a 1980 Reliant K. Big difference. :)
  16. ribs1

    ribs1 New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    I appreciate the sentiment. In fact, if I was one of you guys and knew how to rebuild this thing, I might. However, hiring it done would probably cost almost as much as a whole new system when you factor in new resin, rebuild the valve, new metered control etc. Also, I think this is a 1.5 cube unit and I really need a 2.5 or 3.

    I'm planning to buy a new softener online, put it together myself and hire a plumber to install. I will keep this old unit so I can tinker at my own pace. Might make a good iron filter for the sprinkler system or something.
  17. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,486
    Location:
    Alaska
    We all started knowing nothing about the systems that we work on today.
    You might even find some one that would sell you a rebuilt valve like yours and take yours as a core so that they could rebuild it for use later.
    Changing out the resin is as easy as up ending the tank and dumping it in to buckets and putting in the distributor and refilling with gravel bed and resin with the distributor plugged and putting the valve back on.
  18. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,717
    Location:
    Central Florida
    A similar problem

    Basic data: Well water, 8gpg hardness, 0.9 mg/L Iron, 7.5 pH, H2S < 0.1 Mn 0. 2 people, average water usage for the last 9 years is 105 gpd. Resin tank is a 10x54, 1.5 cu ft.

    According to Gary's sizing chart, I need 1392 Daily Grains of Capacity, so I need 11136 Total Grains of capacity for once-per-week regeneration with a 24-hr reserve. I understand all that, but unfortunately Gary's next step says to set my control valve for a capacity of 12,800, and my old-fashioned valve just has pins and skipper wheels. It's a Fleck controller of unknown lineage left with a couple of Service Manuals (one for "2510 and 2510 Econominder", and one for "2750 Downflow Control Valve") that may or may not apply, but in any case seem to be written for somebody who knows what he's doing, which would not be me, yet.

    Based on the manual, I think I've got a 3200 Timer, but I'm not sure about the valve. Can anybody tell me from the attached pictures what it might be, and how I convert from modern-day digital advice to pins-in-pinwheels?

    Front view:
    Softener head-front-compressed.jpg

    Back of timer:
    Softener head-inside-compressed.jpg

    Behind:
    Softener head-rear-compressed.jpg
  19. Akpsdvan

    Akpsdvan In the Trades

    Messages:
    1,486
    Location:
    Alaska
    If you would like to change yours to a metered system.. all that you would need is the 3210 assembly that has the meter and the meter with a right angle dome with cable.

    The digital is a 24volt, so that would need a new main motor along with the sxt timer and the 3/4 turbin and a transformer..
  20. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,717
    Location:
    Central Florida
    I'm not that enamored of a metered system, to be honest. The present system has provided us with acceptable water, but I have no idea if it's set up optimally for our water and usage.
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