Extending a well casing

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by Schwab Electric, Nov 22, 2011.

  1. Schwab Electric

    Schwab Electric New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    MI
    Hi, I currently have a 4" casing buried 4' in the ground with a well seal on it with an 1 1/4" and 1" pipe going through a well seal. I have a 2 stage flint & walling jet pump in my basement. I have to replace the slowly leaking foot valve in my well. I guess at this time it would be a good time to extend my casing and possibly put a pitless adaptor in, and a 4" submersible pump. I thought I'd use a merrill 4" pitless connector model APC4 to extend my casing , but this is where I have some questions. I'd like to bring up 6" PVC pipe out of the ground. Do I use some type of threaded adaptor from the 4" threads on the merrill pitless connector that would allow me to go to a 6" pipe? If the frost line allows me do I put the pitless adaptor on the 6"riser pipe or below the the pitless connector. Or should I go to a 5" riser? Do I go with 4" submersible or 3"? I know this should be done with a well driller, however money is extremely tight. Thanks for your help.
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2011
  2. masterpumpman

    masterpumpman New Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    I am assuming that you have 4" steel casing with threads up! If this is the case I would recommend installing 4" steel and a coupling. The other option is to use 4" PVC and a female adapter with a threaded bell down. Screw it onto the steel casing.
    Then I would install a 4" Pitless adapter (such as Merrill's MCK Brass Pitless Kit) below the freeze line. Keep it simple! NOTE: To adapt to 6" pipe can present a problen in that the pitless won't allow the drop pipe to line up in the well.

    I'd go with a 4" submersible if it will go in the well. 3" submersibles are OK but don't usually last as long because of the speed they run.
    I'd also recommend installing a Cycle Stop Valve in the line to extend the life of your pump and give you constant pressure like city water. It's not expensive when changing to a submersible.
    Just be careful not to drop anything in the well!
    I understand needing to save $$$$ but the above should be done by a licensed Drilling Contractor. I don't know where you are in MI but I suggest that you find a Preferred Pump Supplier in Lake City, MI or Milan Supply in Mt. Pleasant, MI. I'm sure that they will help you. . . Just tell them that "Porky" sent you. Note: Don't let anyone sell you a computerized pump because they are a nightmare and expensive!
  3. Schwab Electric

    Schwab Electric New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    MI
    Thanks Porky, I haven't ruled out a well driller, however I like to be knowledgeable about everything involved anyhow. I called 2 well drillers and all they are interested in is drilling me a new well. Mount Pleasant is a 1/2 hr. away, I'm near Frankenmuth. thanks for the info on that distributor. I would like to know where the cycle stop valve should be placed and any recomendations on the manufacturer of that valve. Also would a person use 4 inch black pipe or galvanized for the extension? If a person was to go plastic is it standard schedule 40 white PVC? What are the brand names of good quality submersible pumps? The well is 160' deep with the pump located down 100' from what I was told. To adapt to the new pitless adaptor I'm assuming I'll have to cut the 1 1/4" pipe back and rethread it and go with plastic pipe to the pitless adaptor? I would backfill with sand to eliminate any undo pressure. I should also tell you my father was a pipefitter/well person so i have a little knowledge with helping him. Turns out I problably should have paid more attention in gaining that knowledge than chasing women when I was young. LOL. The other 1" pipe that is going out to the well casing I figured on using for the power. I currently have a 3/4 horsepower flint & walling jet pump with a 30/50 cutout switch and was going to use a 3/4" submursible with a 1 1/4" drop and a 30/50 cutout switch. Sorry for the amount of questions but need to knowledgeable if I do it myself or pay a well driller. I was taught to do things right the first time.
  4. masterpumpman

    masterpumpman New Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Virginia Beach, VA
    To keep it simple I suggest that you go to Miland Supply in Mt. Plesant http://www.milansupply.com/html/locations.html talk to Dan Miland and tell him that Porky sent you. I'm sure that he'll assist you with your questions directly. They sell quality pumps and etc.

    If you have a 4" steel casing with threads looking up I'd purchase a 4" galvanized coupling and a piece of 4" galvanized steel with threads on one end. By law in most states the casing needs to extend at least 12" above ground. As far as where to install a Cycle Stop Valve http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html , ask Dan Miland and he'll advise you best. Miland is also a distributor for Cycle Stop Valves!

    Tell Dan that Porky said,
    Note: I believe that a 1/2 hp submersible will be equal to the 3/4 hp jet pump

    I think that being that your father was a pipe fitter/well driller you can figure out the rest.
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