Estimated cost to expect to replace boiler pics included

[Oscj]

I have a 105000 weil mclain hot water boiler it works fine but I'm thinking of replacing anyway since its 28 years old. 5 years ago i replaced pump, gas valve, pressure relief valve , pressure gauge and transformer. this is a rental home and i dont like the idea of a mid winter catastrophe . I already ordered the replacement unit for $1800 same brand/type and I'm also going to replace the expansion tank. what is a reasonable price for labor to replace the unit. Single zone nothing fancy, I've thought about replacing it myself . I know how to do electrical work and plumbing, then just have a pro check the system once I'm done to verify everything is proper?

Any opinions or suggestions are appreciated. I also replaced the pressure reducing valve 5 yrs ago.

 

[NY_Rob]

Unless you're personally very good friends w/a licenced (to work in your county) plumber.. it's going to be very difficult to get a pro to "check out" your work for a self install.

Once they look at it they "own" the liability for it... so most will turn down a job like that. They may be open to installing your parts, maybe.

Inquire around town before you start your project to see if any pro will do what you're asking....

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Oscj]

I have a friend that does hvac and another that is a plumber. they gave me prices of 750 to do the swap if i remove old one myself. My question is what do you guys think about the price ? Im getting a cash discount

Ive read some things on forums about replacing the chimney liner? what other things should i consider replacing along with the boiler?

 

[Cpeters]

Sounds like an easy swap. The hardest part is moving the boilers, (CGA-4 approximately 200+ lbs. It's a days work for a pro and
a couple days for you. Running for smoke pipe, black pipe, copper fittings and other parts you may need eats up your time.
This time of year you may want it done asap.

 

[Dana]

I have a 105000 weil mclain hot water boiler it works fine but I'm thinking of replacing anyway since its 28 years old. 5 years ago i replaced pump, gas valve, pressure relief valve , pressure gauge and transformer. this is a rental home and i dont like the idea of a mid winter catastrophe . I already ordered the replacement unit for $1800 same brand/type and I'm also going to replace the expansion tank. what is a reasonable price for labor to replace the unit. Single zone nothing fancy, I've thought about replacing it myself . I know how to do electrical work and plumbing, then just have a pro check the system once I'm done to verify everything is proper?

Any opinions or suggestions are appreciated. I also replaced the pressure reducing valve 5 yrs ago.

Mind you, a 105,000 BTU/hr boiler is 3x oversized for most 2000 square foot houses in IL, and only appropriate for larger, barely insulated (or uninsulated houses. Only about one house in twenty actually NEEDS a boiler that large.

An oversized boiler cycles on/off more often which reduces efficiency and puts more wear & tear on the boiler. You many not even have enough radiation to emit the full output of the boiler, which is (sadly) often the case, which guarantees from the get-go that it cycles too often, and wears out early, delivering less than the advertised AFUE even on day-1, and falling off faster over time than a right sized boiler would.

The "right" thing do do would be to install it with a boiler with output least no larger than the radiation can deliver, but more appropriately a boiler that is more appropriately sized for the loads. If you have a fuel use history on the place, you can establish an upper bound on the heat load using the old boiler as the measuring instrument.

 

[Oscj]

Well my home is from 1905 and no insulation in the walls. All newer windows but the walls always feel cold. the heating bill is max 160 in coldest months january and February which compared to people with furnaces are usually paying 250 to 300 with similar homes in illinois. ive alwsys been impressed by this boiler and i keep it at 75 degrees.

 

[Dana]

The fact that your bills are lower than other people's despite keeping it at a higher temperature is a strong indication that you don't need anything NEARLY as big as a 105K boiler like the CGA-4, you may not even need half that!

Houses that are using barely more than half or 2/3 the fuel of comparable houses would be better served by the CGA-25, at literally HALF the burner size, and would still be covered (with margin!) during Polar Vortex event lows. That can be proven with only a modest amount of analysis, but we can't work in dollars and months. Dollars aren't BTUs, and months aren't heating degree days.

Exact meter-reading dates & amounts (in CCF or therms or however it's metered, not dollars) for the coldest months and a ZIP code (for weather data and outside design temperature purposes) is enough information to start running the load numbers, as outlined in the blog piece linked to previously. The model number of the existing W-M boiler would also be useful, or just it's input BTU and D.O.E. output BTU &/or nameplate AFUE efficiency, if it's stated.

If you keep it at 75F even overnight, use 70F as your base temperature when retrieving heating degree-day data for the heat load analysis.

Most (but not all) early 20th century antiques can be safely and cost-effectively insulated, and that would lower your heat load even further.

 

[Oscj]

Thanks i was still wondering whats a fair price to pay a pro for the swap?

 

[Dana]

A no-brains-engaged straight boiler swap for a cast iron beast that size would be under USD$5K in my neighborhood, maybe a bit over that if it required a new chimney liner. Swapping in a more appropriately sized cast iron boiler (with half the output) would most likely need a narrowing liner, but most of that cost adder is paid back by the lower upfront cost of the smaller boiler.

The fact that you are using so LITTLE fuel in such a large boiler means it's duty cycle is very low, low enough to cut into both operating efficiency and comfort (seriously!)